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I just converted my printer to 1.75mm filament and I would like to get rid of a bunch of my 3mm stock. I have nearly full spools of NinjaFlex Black, Colorfabb XT Red, Colorfabb PHA/PLA Red, Bronzefill, Brassfill, Form Futura ABS Black, about half of a 5lb spool of IC3D ABS Black, Taulman Bridge and…
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Hi Thomas, I find that asking for a recommendation on a 3D printer is akin to asking a bunch of people what the best cell phone provider is. If you ask 10 different people you will often get 10 completely different answers. Sprint was sterling for one person, another had an awful and unredeemable e…
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Jordan, There is some 1/8" ply in the basement. I would cut that to the size of your bed and fasten with binder clips.
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Thanks Nikki. The workshop was really fun. Let’s get Andy back for 123D Design!
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Thanks for the heads up Alex. I did have a look at the Proto-Pasta nozzles but it seemed like they were mostly geared towards MakerBot owners. Do you have any that are compatible with an e3D hot end?
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It seems like nozzles wearing down will be the new normal for many of the experimental/exotic filaments that are coming to market. For anyone with an E3D v6 compatible hot end, there is a stainless steel nozzle available. I haven’t used it, but it may be a good option for people who don’t want to …
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Why not select a local hub and go through the proper 3D Hubs process?
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I also find that it’s easier to print overhangs with a lower layer height. That way, each layer has a bit more contact with the previous layer. I’ve had better luck printing Marvin at 0.1mm then at 0.2mm.
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Can you offer some information on what the issues are? I bet people can help without having to travel to Panama on your coin. . . .
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You can figure it out if you know the filament density. For PLA it is around 1.24 g/cm3 and for ABS it is 1.04g/cm3. You can find the density of most other more exotic filament (NinjaFlex, BronzeFill, Igus Tribo, etc) by looking for datasheets online. Since Cura does tell you the grams (assuming yo…
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Looks great. I really do wish that you folks would offer a 30 day trial though. Dropping $150 on something I can’t test when Cura is free and works quite well is a lot to ask.
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There are filaments out there that are FDA approved for food contact, both PLA and ABS. However, I wouldn’t consider anything printed with an FDM 3D printer to be food safe. The surface will have too many ridges and pits that bacteria can get into. Mechanical washing can’t get to those areas.
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It’s possible. Depending on how many numbers and the size.
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Hi Rachel, How many numbers do you need and approximately what size? Do you have models already made, or do you need them created? If you start a quote process from my hub, then we can speak directly. Best, Chris
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Hi Rachel I am in NYC and can print in bronzefill and brassfill filament. As I think Marius said below, it’s not quite as shiny as the numbers in your image, but it looks quite nice. See here for some examples: Feel free to get in touch if you’d like to discuss. https://www.3dhubs.com/new-yor…
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Removed.
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I’ll add my voice to the Ultimaker crowd. I have an Ultimaker Original and I have printed many upgrades designed by the very active community. It’s an excellent printer and is incredibly easy to modify to ones own taste.
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As many others have said, get a piece of glass cut and ground. With a heated bed, you shouldn’t need to mess with the blue painter’s tape. I typically don’t need to apply anything to my glass bed when printing PLA. For ABS, I use a slurry of ABS shavings and acetone and for nylon filaments (Taulman…
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I second this. I would love to see integration with YouMagine.
