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So with all other things operating properly, the attachment of the infill is a function of 2 things. How close to the inside shell the extruder travels and how thick of a bead you lay down. The extruder won’t travel all the way to the center of the shell unless you set your overlap to at least 50%. …
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This happens if there are faces turned the wrong way or holes or overlaps in your model. Very common if you use a rotating extrusion tool or circular array tool in your software and any part of the path shape crosses the center axis. It can be really hard to find to a software that detects and repai…
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It can be a leveling issue because the overlap also is affected by the squeeze out of the bead. Things that affect this are the overlap, extrusion multiplier, filament diameter and how close to the nozzle you are leveled. If it happens on all areas of the bed, bump the multiplier up. I set mine to 1…
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I had similar issues with mine at about the same point in time. I fixed two separate items that I found related to the problem and never had a failed print since the fix 1.) replace the cooling fan it is in any way damaged. Mine was missing two blades out of the 9 because a piece of filament swung …
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This happens on my makerbot from time to time. It’s caused by a bad ribbon cable on that axis. As the cable bends, if there is a break internally, the motor will skip a step or two on each pass and the whole next layer will be offset by that much. I’m not sure if that is your problem here but it may…
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I started doing this a few months ago on my Makerbot when I switched to Simplify 3d and it’s has saved my sanity on a few occasions. One thing that I found on my machine that I would add… I have to edit the start-up procedure for my printer so that there is a pause between the x,y,z homing, and the …
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Not without changing the firmware. That’s what you get for the $150. Convenience and support.
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Nearly all the things that you can do with repetier (not all though), you can do with Makerware by editing your profile in a text editor. They just don’t make it very convenient. I’ve gotten great results doing so, however. As stated below, Simplify 3D might be a better option.
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I have a low friction nozzle from P3-D on mine right now and I love it. when i switch nozzles and fixed my gap problem, I’ve not had a single jam since! You can get these on ebay. the company is local to me but I am only familiar with them via their ebay store.
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I’ve had some issues with my hot end in the past that are similar. Not oozing out the side, but I have had issues where there was an ever so slight gap between the top of the nozzle and the bottom of the feed tube that screws into the heater block. That tiny gap caused me more issues than anything t…
