I use a slicing software called Simplify3D and it only happens in that software (I’m sure its just a setting). If I use the makerbot slicer it doesn’t do this. The PLA is simply not reaching the edge of the outline as in the picture. Anyone familiar with Simplify3D or similar that knows what I should do?
Usually just the first layer or 2
Increase your first layer height/width. Your extruder is not close enough to the bed, if this only happens in the first few layers.
Simplify3d defaults to 90% first layer height.
I agree with this, if its only the first layer or two, the material just isnt being placed in the proper place. Try leveling closer to the bed. I find a thin piece of graph paper works best for me, standard computer paper is often too thick, especially if its fairly nice feeling paper.
I use a rep 2 and S3D. It looks like your nozzle is too far from your print bed. On the left of the photo, it looks ok, but the right side is way off. Be sure you are correctly leveling your bed. It could also be extrusion multiplier but I don’t think that’s it. Check your origin offset under the g-code tab and see what it is set to. Also check your first layer height setting under layer. I don’t have my program in front of me, but I usually do between 80
and 90 percent on first layer height.
As another note that could be throwing you off, I don’t like the “blob” method of clearing the nozzle because it can mess up your alignment. I’ve modified the start script and you can try it as well. My bed isn’t stock, so you may have to play with it a bit but it extrudes a straight line down the front, much like the MakerBot desktop software does. I’ll post it below.
I I hope this helps.
-Wes
This is the modified start script I run in S3D to keep from blobbing and throwing off my bed alignment. You may have to modify it a little because im not using a stock bed.
; **** Replicator 2 start.gcode ****
M73 P0 ; enable build progress
G162 X Y F3000 ; home XY maximum
G161 Z F1200 ; home Z minimum
G92 Z-5 ; set Z to -5
G1 Z0 ; move Z to 0
G161 Z F100 ; home Z slowly
M132 X Y Z A B ; recall home offsets
G1 X145 Y-75 Z0 F9000 ; move to wait position off table
G130 X20 Y20 Z20 A20 B20 ; lower stepper Vrefs while heating
M126 S[fan_speed_pwm]
M104 S[extruder0_temperature] T0
M133 T0 ; stabilize extruder temperature
G130 X127 Y127 Z40 A127 B127 ; default stepper Vrefs
G92 A0 ; zero extruder
G1 Z0.20 ; position nozzle
G1 X105.400 Y-74.000 Z0.270 F9000.000 (Extruder Prime Dry Move)
G1 X-141 Y-74 Z0.270 F1800.000 E25.000 (Extruder Prime Start)
G92 A0 B0 (Reset after prime)
G92 A0 ; zero extruder
M73 P1 ;@body (notify GPX body has started)
; **** end of start.gcode ****
Definitely looks like a leveling issue. Left side of print is fine, bottom and right has gaps between beads of plastic and you are not reaching the border.
between Makerware and S3d you might be printing in a thicker layer height by default in Makerware.
This is one of the many reasons i havent used Simplify3D in a while, i was having the same issues with ABS as well, it seems to mess up the amount of travel it should do on the layers. I gave up for now trying to figure it out so will be watching this to see if anyone has a solution. I just went back to the Makerbot Desktop, its not the best but it always works.
It could also be slight underextrusion. I know the default S3D profile sets flow rate to 0.9 and also puts the filament diameter at 1.77mm.
I think that, as mentioned elsewhere, changing the outline overlap fixes the majority of this issue.
Honestly, any print that requires supports I use S3D. Once using those supports there really is just no going back
I had the same problem with Simplify3D, its not a leveling issue, thats been checked and rechecked. I can print a file sliced with Makerbot Desktop and it comes out perfect, then i can print a file sliced with Simplify3D and its missing the edges and the layers aren’t consistent. Sometimes it will make it out to the edge of the shell sometimes it leaves a gap, makes for a really chunky looking print as the layers are not consistently lacking in the same spot each time. But then i can print that same file sliced with Makerbot Desktop and its perfect!
Kind of wish Simplify3D had a trial version so i could have found this out before wasting money on it, i haven’t even ran the program for months now because it was just too frustrating to get it working right. Who sells software without a trial anymore? Those guys need to get their heads out of their rears.
It fixes the majority of it, but it doesn’t completely fix it. Thats the problem, if i’m going to use a piece of software it needs to work or not. I don’t get how MD can do it for free but S3D can’t for how much i paid for it. I still have a couple open support tickets with S3D from six months ago that never have gotten resolved.
I will also agree the supports on S3D is amazingly good, but since i couldn’t get it working right with my printers i went to using MeshMixer and adding supports in there and then exporting to MD and sending the file to the SD Card. The supports in MeshMixer have been really good, and that software was free also!
It can be a leveling issue because the overlap also is affected by the squeeze out of the bead. Things that affect this are the overlap, extrusion multiplier, filament diameter and how close to the nozzle you are leveled. If it happens on all areas of the bed, bump the multiplier up. I set mine to 1.0 on the first floor layers, then .9 on subsequent layers. If it only happens on that one side, raise that corner of the bed by 1/8 turn. Let us know how it works out!
It does not look like a software issue. I personally have used S3D for several years and not had an issue on my REP2. If you don’t have your machine dialed in (leveled, extrusion multiplyer, etc.) Then it won’t work. The reason MD does is because they remove choices that S3D gives you. You can get much better prints more consistently in my experience using S3D. But with more choices, come more places for problems to arise. Start adjusting one thing at a time that has been suggested, starting with making sure your bed is super level and not warped (stock rep 2 build plates warp really bad). Then do a test print. Then, change something else until you figure out exactly what it is. Or, forgo your options and use MD
I dont think i could get my printer any more dialed in, nor could i get the platform any more level. I use a dial indicator and feeler gauge to set mine up. I have an error of less than half a thousand in the Y, and less than that in the X. If i could improve the leveling i’m not sure how!!
Again, Simplify 3D puts down a nice first layer, but it doesn’t travel far enough, its not an extrusion problem it simply doesnt move to the location its missing. If it actually went over that spot it would print there, but it stops short like it doesnt tell the printer to move far enough over. But oddly it can do the outline perfectly but filling in it stops just like the picture posted by the OP.
I played with it for days, weeks really of evenings, i found that sometimes i could deal with it because after its done with the bottom shell and it started doing the infill it would go all the way to the outline for the infill layers, but because there was no support under the infill in some spots it would sag and the print would just look like you put it in an oven and let it slowly melt, every layer after sagged more and more. But run the same print with MD doing the slicing and it was flawless. Again, not being a MD fanboy here, i really hate their software some days, crashes a lot, freezes up, and for some odd reason since the last update it stops responding every time i go to close it. But at least i could get a good print out of it because it would export to the SD card before crashing out. This is why i bought Simplify3D because i was sick of MD having all these issues, but S3D was having these print issues.
I will try it again some day maybe i can get it working yet.
Could you link the model you are trying to print? I’ll do a test here.
So with all other things operating properly, the attachment of the infill is a function of 2 things. How close to the inside shell the extruder travels and how thick of a bead you lay down. The extruder won’t travel all the way to the center of the shell unless you set your overlap to at least 50%. I think the default is 20 or 30. If you have enough plastic extruding, 20-30% is plenty because the squish of the bead still allows enough of the plastic to adhere to the shell. So, you will have to adjust the overlap % and the extrusion multiplier to get the result that you want. Make small changes. I would start with ext. multiplier at .95 or 1.0 and the overlap at 30% then move up in 5% increments.
Good Day. First off it appears that the table may not be as level as it could be. I say that because the infill at the left or upper left is more complete than the right or lower right. That means the plastic has not been flattened as much as it is elsewhere. Carefully level the bed.
Also if you turn on the Brim and make 2 outlines of the Brim, it gives you a gauge of how level the bed is. If the brim is not a consistent width all around the part, then the build plate to print head gap is not even due to being out of level. The printed BRIM can be, in effect, a measure of the flatness of the build plate and a measure of how accurately you have leveled the build plate.
There is a setting of infill overlap. That sets how much of the outline is overlapped by the infill. You can increase that setting. Try at 25%. Increase if required. Also increase the number of outlines by 1 more than you have now.
Also Simplfy3D has a setting about first layer thickness. The lower that percentage, the more the first layer is pressed flat against the build plate. It actually reduces the first layer gap between the print head and the build plate. It squishes the plastic to improve the adhesion to the build plate. It also makes the width of the line of plastic wider to ensure full coverage.
I would advise looking at the Simplify3D support document. I’ve found it quite helpful in solving common issues. Print Quality Guide | Simplify3D Software 3
YMMV.
