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Sounds like the bed is warped pretty bad. Will need to either get a flat bed or use mesh leveling firmware to program the warp out.
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Sounds like a problem with heat creep. Insufficient cooling of the heat brake will allow the plastic outside the melt chamber to become soft and or liquid. When this happens gravity takes over and the plastic will continue to ooze during travel movements and increasing retraction length will not sol…
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Looks like you may have a patially clogged nozzle and/or are printing a bit cool. You may also should probably adjust your PINDA height. With that much correction the mesh bed leveling will not be as precise.
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What kind of filament? If it’s anything but ninjaflex then sounds like you have a really bad heat brake problem. The filament shouldn’t be able to bunch into a knot at room temp. If it is ninjaflex you are going to have a really hard time printing smaller than .04.
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Gavin, Try scigrip 16 fast set acrylic weld. I have not tried it on ninja flex but from the composition it should work well. It is both solvent welding and an industrial adhesive mixed. Haven’t found anything plastic that it won’t bond. It it will make the adhesion point stiff though.
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Plastic welding, rubber cement and acrylic adhesives have varying amounts of success. Are you trying to adhere static plains or does it need to bend at the adhesion point?
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Generally when printing PLA the fan comes on after the first layer. So if the temp is stable on the second layer it is probably not a result of the fan kicking on. What printer/control board are you running. This happens a lot with controllers that overheat because of poor power handling and insuff…
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These printers are kind of prone to this. Has been traced to bad thermistor and/or heater cartridge wiring and to the board overheating. There are several YouTube tutorials on fixing these problems.
