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Jan 2016
15 / 21
Jan 2016
Feb 2016
Yakiimo
Jan '16

I see a lot of discussion of the mini, and some love for the Plus 2 but I haven’t seen much here about the Up Box. It’s at the top of my list due to the built-in HEPA filter, but the lack of reviews and discussion worries me. What is working well on yours? What is causing you trouble?

For example I’ve seen people say the mini (also enclosed) doesn’t handle PLA well without opening and cooling it actively - if the same issue is true on the Box, that would be a kind of deal breaker for me since it at least partially negates the HEPA filtering.

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    Jan '16

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    Feb '16
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Steelmans
Jan '16

Only 6 hubs (myself included) reviewed it this year. It finished top with 9.2 but obviously not enough reviews to be considered for the list.

It is an amazing printer. I’ve has a few and I still have an Up Mini and a CEL Robox but the UP BOX is in a different league. I think next year, when more printers are out there, it could be the outright winner on 3D Hubs.

I should add that mine runs all day long with hardly any maintenance.

Jeremycon
Jan '16

Hi

have had the UpBox for about 8 months, and the only problem I’ve had was with the extruder which was replaced under warranty (the nozzle was the wrong material and got seriously blocked), apparently a fault they new about.

Otherwise no complaints, have had no problems using PLA, just use the settings. have also tried flexible and that worked too, just be careful with the temperature.

more than happy with the UpBox thinking about getting another to work alongside.

Jeremy

psnewhook
Jan '16

Hi,

I’ve had my UpBox for a few months now and it’s working really well. I’ve only printed in ABS so far and the results are impressive. For best results make sure you keep both doors closed while printing and get the bed up to 75-80 degrees before you start the print, this will keep warping to an absolute minimum. Because it’s fully enclosed it’s very quite while running.

It needs minimum maintenance - I just start it up, pre-heat the bed and print - I rarely have to remove the nozzle to unblock it, and the software provided it very easy to use too. I can highly recommend it for ABS printing.

Jeremy - please let us know which flexible filament you used as I’d like to try some. When you say ‘be careful with the temperature’ how do you change the settings? I can’t find any options to do this in the software?

Thanks, Paul

Steelmans
Jan '16

@psnewhook There a couple of ways to change temperature but both are aftermarket hacks.

The first is a software hack that lets you change all the settings including speeds and custom layer heights. This was developed by UP users and can be found at the up3d.com 15 forum.

The second is a physical switch that mounts on the extruder by Octave. I’ve tried both but the Octave is simplest for me as I only change temperature for different filaments.

Yakiimo
Jan '16

I’m glad to hear from another person that PLA works fine. By the way, how did you figure out that the nozzle was the wrong material? Just blocking? I assume that has been fixed in future models.

Yakiimo
Jan '16

Steelmans, thanks so much for all the feedback. I may just put in my order. By the way, did you source yours domestically or directly from up3d / pp3dp or …? The domestic price for me is more than 50% over the price e.g. in the US.

Jeremycon
Jan '16

Told by the dealer that was the case, they have now fixed the new models so there should not be any problems

Jeremycon
Jan '16

I was on about PLA, just make sure you use the PLA setting and you should not have any problems, also your tip about keeping the doors shut is the best advice.

Jeremycon
Jan '16

that’s just what I was going to reply, you beat me to it.I have not used either myself as I am more than happy with the way it works at the mo. might try the hack tho.

Jeremycon
Jan '16

Hi

the flexible I have used that seems to work is from rigid.ink, they are on Amazon

I have tried others but this was the only one I have been able to get work so far.

also they were very helpful ( no affiliation with them) as I mentioned it was a freebie from the

show at the NEC

Steelmans
Jan '16

I got mine from a UK shop but it came from the UK distributor. I believe upgrades have been made so I would get it direct from UP if possible. That way you know you are getting the latest machine.

1 month later
Difi3D
Feb '16

Hey All,

I’m a little late to the game here but I had just purchased the Afinia H800/UP BOX when Yakiimo posted this question. I wanted to get a few months use out of the printer to give a more experienced opinion. There still aren’t many reviews out there so I’ve put together a review of the printer after a few months of professional use. For anyone interested in this printer take a look :

http://www.difi3d.com/blog/2016/2/23/afinia-h800up-box-3d-printer-review 4

Yakiimo
Feb '16

Very helpful review. My experience mirrored yours almost exactly. Especially about the auto nozzle height problem - it puts the nozzle too low and causes a clog for me every time i have tried it. It’s too bad that it makes the feature pretty much useless for me. I hope they will fix it in an update. Alternatively, I may try putting some layers of tape on top of the auto nozzle height mechanism to induce an additional offset.

I did have one very different experience from yours - I can’t print with the “no raft” option. I tried it and the software or the firmware seems to treat the bottom layers as raft material even when “no raft” is selected. So the bottom several layers come out with the sieve effect. Support told me “please do NOT select this function to print”. Have you successfully printed without a raft?

– update up3d support claims that my nozzle is too high and that actually the No Raft option is viable. Not sure if I will try it with all the clogs I’ve had.

Difi3D
Feb '16

What UP3D support is telling you makes since. The nozzle height typically needs to be dialed in correctly when printing without a raft to get the overlap between passes just right. I haven’t tried printing on the UP Box without the raft yet. I’m considering experimenting with a glass bed outfitted with a PEI sheet to play with printing without a raft (http://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Natural-Standard-Tolerance-Thickness/dp/B00CPRDDLY/ref=sr\_1\_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456511583&sr=8-1&keywords=PEI+sheet)

Not sure if you’ve ever seen this but PEI works REALLY well as a print surface. It becomes ultra sticky when the bed is heated and once cooled the printed parts pop right off.

Yakiimo
Feb '16

Thanks for the advice! I recently got a 0.4mm drill bit so I guess I can experiment with dropping the nozzle. I have seen everyone talking about PEI so I may try that out - what would you do? Remove all the screws from the aluminum block, attach glass and then the PEI? That sounds appealing because for the life of me I can’t get zeros across the board with the Up Box platform.