good choice, i have one Ultimaker 2 and 2 Ultimaker 1 and while i like the UM2, I still sometimes prefer the UM1 because everything is easier to fix and more hands on. The print quality is also pretty much the same, the single andvantage if the UM2 is that it has two fans, but you can easily add a second one to the UM1.
So if you are inclined to tinker a little bit i would recomend the Ultimaker 1+ (comes with a heated bed and the bed is a little bit “steadier” ) and you could also save some money
The heated bed stopped working for me after about 2 months but the forums told me exactly what to and it was easy to reflow the solder on that connector and it has worked fine for 2 years since then. I think their quality control is a bit better. Also someone complained about their customer service. That department has grown quite a bit and the people there are pretty smart now. They all speak english incredibly well. I think you’ll find it’s not *too* horrible. And if you are in USA and you ordered through their website then your support will most likely be from Memphis. Fast ship on parts and such from Memphis.
I have had my UM2 for six weeks and have run it more or less non stop for that entire time. I have two SD cards that I keep loaded with print files, so as one print finishes, I scrape it off, spray a light coat of hairspray down and immediately start the next print. The only down time is if a print finishes in the middle of the night or while I am at work. But the UM2 wasn’t exactly plug and play. When it arrived and I tried to go through the initial setup, it kept giving me errors because several of the belt gears were loose. I had to remove the sheetmetal covers and tighten up all the gears. After that, I had some issues leveling the bed properly. I followed the instructions to the letter 5 or 6 times and it failed to start a print every time. Finally, some magic happened and I got the bed leveling right and it was off to the races after that. I have been blown away by the print quality which rivals the quality of prints I do at work on our $50,000 Fortus 250MC. Prior to this purchase, I had a Rostock Max kit I built and after 2 years of ownership, I have still not gotten anything off it that is even close to the UM2 in terms of quality. Talk about finicky and having to tinker with something constantly! With the UM2, I had a few bumps starting out, but since getting it running initially, I haven’t touched it or given it a second thought. It’s so nice to be able to start a big print and not have to worry about whether or not it will finish properly. Most of the stuff I print is proprietary, so I can’t post photos of that, but I have printed a few things just for fun and I’ll attach a few photos of those things. I have printed in PLA, (several colors as well as glow in the dark), ABS, and Colorfabb XT and they all did great. I highly recommend the UM2. You won’t regret spending the money on it. I am now considering purchasing a second one myself.
Starting at least a year ago UM switched to glass filled teflon. I’m not convinced they are any better. Some people at UM did some testing and concluded they were better. Anders Olsson I believe concluded they are worse (I could be confused about this). I have had no problem with either type (tried both) as I tend to keep things cool (typically 210C) and rarely stray from PLA. They are inexpensive. If you plan to print often at 250C or hotter I recommend you get the i2k from 3dsolex which will keep the teflon at 100C! But only if you do no retraction, lol. As soon as you do retraction it can bring molten plastic up into the teflon and warm it right up. 3dsolex also sells something they call the IPM which is horrible for PLA (molten pla sticks to it) but works great for ABS and other materials that need higher temperatures.
Anyway the teflon parts are relatively cheap (about $12 or €12 each from 3dsolex).
Hi, i have really good success with PLA and soon I will be trying LDPE. The Material holder is not well designed and you can get some print fails due to the filament drum getting stuck or a tangle. I have no complaints about it. Really good detail and it has not failed a print where it wasn’t my fault. All in all i will purchase another when i need more production.
the main problem is not the feeder but the friction from the spooler guide, and the filament holder, print upgraded versions on these and the standard feeder is ok, yes re-print an upgraded version eventually, but new guide and then spool holder 1st…
for starters when printing ABS use kapton tape on the hot bed, bed temp needs to go upto 110°, check the 0.1mm bed distance and it WILL stick…lol. if you have problems with layer sep, then turn off the layer cooling fans.
with regards to the nozzle, to me its fairly easy to change! (should have tried changing one when we used NiChrome wire as a heating element.lol) you don’t have to strip the hole head down, you remove the layer cooling fans, then unscrew nozzle. that’s it!
only if you want to change the PTFE piece do you have to strip the head down.
Give me a shout through me hub if you want any specific help with any Ultimaker 2 setups. I am always happy to help.
Ciao noi siamo un Fab Lab e abbiamo solo una Ultimaker 2 che utilizziamo molto meno che il modello che per noi è migliore di Punta Sharebot ne abbiamo 6 e produciamo essendo distributori di filamenti di tutto con tutto più limitata Ultimaker 2 che quando utilizziamo filamenti speciali alluminio ecc troviamo delle imperfezioni sulle stampe ecc.comunque è una buona stamante attualmente pero noi che lavoriamo 15 ore al giorno essa è più limitata che altre.
Ciao noi siamo un Fab Lab e ABBIAMO solista Una Ultimaker 2 Che utilizziamo Molto Meno Che il modello di Che per Noi e Migliore di Punta Sharebot ne ABBIAMO 6 e produciamo being Distributori di filamenti di tutto con tutto Più limitata Ultimaker 2 Che when utilizziamo filamenti speciali alluminio ecc Troviamo delle imperfezioni Sulle stampe ecc.comunque e Una buona stamante attualmente pero Noi che Lavoriamo 15 ore al giorno ESSA e Piu limitata Che Altre.
Great printer to work in continuity but with many materials which are not or pla abs abs or special materials and pla very often with the right calibration and setting a few times instead of them a 5% margin of error of 100 prints rises to about 11 % except that we as the majority sharebot dual extruders etc. the margin of error of 100 prints made is reduced to 3 % of those with small mistakes always septate well both printers , but nothing to remove ultimaker 2 since we have and we use as tuttte the other .
thanks.
AGS GOUR SRL
Vidali doctor Massimiliano
Great printer to work in continuity but with many materials which are not or pla abs abs or special materials and pla very often with the right calibration and setting a few times instead of them a 5% margin of error of 100 prints rises to about 11 % except that we as the majority sharebot dual extruders etc. the margin of error of 100 prints made is reduced to 3 % of those with small mistakes always septate well both printers , but nothing to remove ultimaker 2 since we have and we use as tuttte the other .
thanks.
AGS GOUR SRL
Vidali doctor Massimiliano
not sure if really very very hard is correct- Printing with a FDM printer just requires the correct models to get great results. Just too many people think it’s like a star trek replicator…and to change this perception is maybe really very very hard.
