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Jun 2015

Starting at least a year ago UM switched to glass filled teflon. I’m not convinced they are any better. Some people at UM did some testing and concluded they were better. Anders Olsson I believe concluded they are worse (I could be confused about this). I have had no problem with either type (tried both) as I tend to keep things cool (typically 210C) and rarely stray from PLA. They are inexpensive. If you plan to print often at 250C or hotter I recommend you get the i2k from 3dsolex which will keep the teflon at 100C! But only if you do no retraction, lol. As soon as you do retraction it can bring molten plastic up into the teflon and warm it right up. 3dsolex also sells something they call the IPM which is horrible for PLA (molten pla sticks to it) but works great for ABS and other materials that need higher temperatures.

Anyway the teflon parts are relatively cheap (about $12 or €12 each from 3dsolex).

Pro:

The Um is the best printer for it’s price

makes nice and (very) fast parts,

looks great on a desk :slight_smile:

con:

difficult to change a nozzle size (3 mins on UM+)

need to print a better feeder first thing.

permanent fan behind the print head can be noisy.

not made for tinkering.

but for all UM printers, a very big pro, Cura !

Hi, i have really good success with PLA and soon I will be trying LDPE. The Material holder is not well designed and you can get some print fails due to the filament drum getting stuck or a tangle. I have no complaints about it. Really good detail and it has not failed a print where it wasn’t my fault. All in all i will purchase another when i need more production.

the main problem is not the feeder but the friction from the spooler guide, and the filament holder, print upgraded versions on these and the standard feeder is ok, yes re-print an upgraded version eventually, but new guide and then spool holder 1st…

for starters when printing ABS use kapton tape on the hot bed, bed temp needs to go upto 110°, check the 0.1mm bed distance and it WILL stick…lol. if you have problems with layer sep, then turn off the layer cooling fans.

with regards to the nozzle, to me its fairly easy to change! (should have tried changing one when we used NiChrome wire as a heating element.lol) you don’t have to strip the hole head down, you remove the layer cooling fans, then unscrew nozzle. that’s it!

only if you want to change the PTFE piece do you have to strip the head down.

Give me a shout through me hub if you want any specific help with any Ultimaker 2 setups. I am always happy to help.

Ciao noi siamo un Fab Lab e abbiamo solo una Ultimaker 2 che utilizziamo molto meno che il modello che per noi è migliore di Punta Sharebot ne abbiamo 6 e produciamo essendo distributori di filamenti di tutto con tutto più limitata Ultimaker 2 che quando utilizziamo filamenti speciali alluminio ecc troviamo delle imperfezioni sulle stampe ecc.comunque è una buona stamante attualmente pero noi che lavoriamo 15 ore al giorno essa è più limitata che altre.

Ciao noi siamo un Fab Lab e ABBIAMO solista Una Ultimaker 2 Che utilizziamo Molto Meno Che il modello di Che per Noi e Migliore di Punta Sharebot ne ABBIAMO 6 e produciamo being Distributori di filamenti di tutto con tutto Più limitata Ultimaker 2 Che when utilizziamo filamenti speciali alluminio ecc Troviamo delle imperfezioni Sulle stampe ecc.comunque e Una buona stamante attualmente pero Noi che Lavoriamo 15 ore al giorno ESSA e Piu limitata Che Altre.

Great printer to work in continuity but with many materials which are not or pla abs abs or special materials and pla very often with the right calibration and setting a few times instead of them a 5% margin of error of 100 prints rises to about 11 % except that we as the majority sharebot dual extruders etc. the margin of error of 100 prints made is reduced to 3 % of those with small mistakes always septate well both printers , but nothing to remove ultimaker 2 since we have and we use as tuttte the other .
thanks.
AGS GOUR SRL
Vidali doctor Massimiliano