Yeah, I did some prints with Colorfabb woodfill fine printing 200+ micron layers fast.
But much higher risk of clogs and other challenges. Also except woodfill fine from Colorfabb all other resulted in clogs pretty much within the first 10-20 layers.
In comparison, my Rostock MAX with .6mm does not have that challenge. So not impossible, but would not recommend UM2 for this.
If you have never used a 3D printer before, then you are in for a shock, because 3D printing is really very, very hard beyond the simplest of things.
Having printed around 2000 hours on the Ultimaker 2, I find that it rarely fails on a print and can handle quite a broad variety of materials, including PLA, ABS, Nylon and NinjaFlex. But I suppose as is the case with every printer, if you want really great results the greatest skill you need is infinite patience and print things really slowly.
The heated bed stopped working for me after about 2 months but the forums told me exactly what to and it was easy to reflow the solder on that connector and it has worked fine for 2 years since then. I think their quality control is a bit better. Also someone complained about their customer service. That department has grown quite a bit and the people there are pretty smart now. They all speak english incredibly well. I think you’ll find it’s not *too* horrible. And if you are in USA and you ordered through their website then your support will most likely be from Memphis. Fast ship on parts and such from Memphis.
I have had my UM2 for six weeks and have run it more or less non stop for that entire time. I have two SD cards that I keep loaded with print files, so as one print finishes, I scrape it off, spray a light coat of hairspray down and immediately start the next print. The only down time is if a print finishes in the middle of the night or while I am at work. But the UM2 wasn’t exactly plug and play. When it arrived and I tried to go through the initial setup, it kept giving me errors because several of the belt gears were loose. I had to remove the sheetmetal covers and tighten up all the gears. After that, I had some issues leveling the bed properly. I followed the instructions to the letter 5 or 6 times and it failed to start a print every time. Finally, some magic happened and I got the bed leveling right and it was off to the races after that. I have been blown away by the print quality which rivals the quality of prints I do at work on our $50,000 Fortus 250MC. Prior to this purchase, I had a Rostock Max kit I built and after 2 years of ownership, I have still not gotten anything off it that is even close to the UM2 in terms of quality. Talk about finicky and having to tinker with something constantly! With the UM2, I had a few bumps starting out, but since getting it running initially, I haven’t touched it or given it a second thought. It’s so nice to be able to start a big print and not have to worry about whether or not it will finish properly. Most of the stuff I print is proprietary, so I can’t post photos of that, but I have printed a few things just for fun and I’ll attach a few photos of those things. I have printed in PLA, (several colors as well as glow in the dark), ABS, and Colorfabb XT and they all did great. I highly recommend the UM2. You won’t regret spending the money on it. I am now considering purchasing a second one myself.
