Ultimaker 2+, extrusion problem

SlashDev · 2016-07-07T12:17:09.000Z

I’ve had similar problems where the thermistor said it was 30 degrees warmer than it actually was. I verified this with an infrared heat sensor. New thermistor solved my problem, probably was a faulty cable.

federico3 · 2016-07-07T12:21:19.000Z

Ok, I’ll try to buy one during the weekend. In any case, it’s a good tool to have in the lab

baloe3d · 2016-07-07T12:27:34.000Z

I don’t have experience with UM2, but it makes sense to remove the hot end to reach the isolator coupler. I have UM1 which should be about the same.

will_kostelecky · 2016-07-07T12:47:38.000Z

After you do all the easy checks…like making sure there are no stringy bits binding the filament in the bowden tube, and after checking and maybe cleaning the extruder gear, and trying a different nozzle…I would think that it is likely to be the teflon coupler that needs replacing. They are a consumable item and I have been through a couple.

MCHD · 2016-07-07T12:55:00.000Z

Try to put a litlle bit of WD-40 inside the bowden tube, it as solved my extrusion problem with the Ultimaker 2GO.

Regards

Marc

keebie81 · 2016-07-07T13:00:59.000Z

infrared thermometers will not give you an accurate reading. you need a thermistor to check temps.

bramthats · 2016-07-07T14:13:51.000Z

Had same issue, replaced the teflon coupler. That was causing this issue and the problem was solved!
This is wat you need → http://3dsolex.com/teflon-replacements

I replaced it with this one, and the printer prints like a charm

federico3 · 2016-07-07T15:56:37.000Z

Thanks for your suggestion, I’m quite sure that the Teflon coupler is the problem: I checked everything else and my idea it’s confirmed also by the position of the issue highlighted by the Atomic Test.

federico3 · 2016-07-07T15:58:01.000Z

Feeder is fine. I’d say that’s the Teflon tube at this point

3DJollyFab · 2016-07-07T16:02:27.000Z

Agree with Brammezz as I encoutered that before, and solved by replacing a new telforn. Good Luck!

will_kostelecky · 2016-07-08T11:48:23.000Z

I have been fighting on and off extrusion issues with my two Ultimaker 2’s for a while and this thread may have pointed me to a solution that I had not thought of nor tried. Historically I do a lot of atomic cleans, I have replaced teflon couplers, I keep the extruder gears clean, and prior to my upgrade of both my printers to “+” versions I had replaced the Bowden Tubes with “slippier” versions.

What I had not done was use something like the below to clean, and more importantly, lubricate, my bowden tubes:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:190118

The difference has been profound. The same print that had extrusion issues printed perfectly with no changes other than adding this filter. I am not sure why I had not done this until now, or in fact if there is some reason that I should not be using it…?

Wow though. Thanks Marc!

Will

federico3 · 2016-07-08T12:52:33.000Z

That’s a cool suggestion, I’ll try to print one of them and use it

Cheers,

Federico

Clean3D · 2016-07-08T14:50:07.000Z

I’ve seen this issue before when the nozzle seems to be clean, I’m wondering what your PTFE coupler looks like and if it might be worn out? I change mine about every 4-500 hours but it depends what temps you normally work at. It’s a good suggestion below with poking something into the nozzle. I use a 28 gauge needle (0.36mm), and you can find them any medical supply store. I would also look at the gear box in the back. Sometimes when small bits of plastic accumulating in it can slow the forward movement thus causing underextrusion.

Jamburger · 2016-07-08T15:39:11.000Z

I have a problem that looks like this pretty frequently. It may or may not be the same thing, but usually for me it’s that the nozzle isn’t “primed”. That is, the material has been retracted at the end of a print or when I aborted a print and the start g-code dis not sufficiently compensate for this before attempting to print the first layer.

If that’s the problem, there are tqo solutions:

1. Go into maintenance>advanced>move material and spin the dial until material comes out, then hit cancel and start the print.

2. Change your starting g-code so that it includes a command to extrude a bunch (I call this “priming” the nozzle) before beginning the first layer.

Jamburger · 2016-07-08T15:44:10.000Z

I suppose the other possibility is that your filament tangled… I always forget to check for that first.

by the way, glad the pinecone lamp came out nicely. Sorry for never getting back to you about our g-code analyzer. Unfortunately it only supports rep-rap g-code and does not yet support ulti-gcode.

federico3 · 2016-07-08T15:49:43.000Z

No problem at all, I’m quite sure that the problem wasn’t the Gcode. I’ll try to order a new Teflon part: honestly, I believe that it is the problem.

jockspice · 2016-07-10T17:31:33.000Z

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the extruder. The gears inside the new feeder had begun to push each other apart sideways, down the shafts. As a result, the gear on the stepper motor had moved down the shaft toward the motor, resulting in a loss of movement to the filament. At first I thought it was grinding the filament, but there were no marks - it simply stopped turning the gear.

To fix it, I have applied glue to the shaft of the stepper motor and reattached the gear, in the same position down the shaft as in the upgrade video. As a precaution, I have also glued the bigger gear onto its shaft end.

federico3 · 2016-07-11T08:04:45.000Z

Hi Jockspice,

Thanks for your suggestion: I have already checked the extruder and, apparently, it’s working in a correct way.

federico3 · 2016-07-12T12:40:15.000Z

@idamartha @Jaime_1 @SlashDev @jockspice @Clean3D @bramthats @Jamburger @will_kostelecky

Thanks to all of you! Finally, I solved the problem. I disassembled and checked all the hotend. The problem was some PLA wedged between the nozzle and the Teflon.

federico3 · 2016-07-12T13:57:21.000Z

…And the problem is back, sigh!