I just received my newly purchased Wanhao Duplicator I3. I would like to know if any other Wanhao users are out there, and if they have any tips for me. I just purchased a glass top for my bed, Whats the best way to secure it to the main bed, etc…
I would personally upgrade the hotend to the micro swiss all metal hot end to get better quality: Micro Swiss Online Store 10
Print and install the Z axis brace mod: Z braces for Wanhao Duplicator i3, Cocoon Create, Maker Select, and Malyan M150 i3 3D printers. by AzzA - Thingiverse 9
Print these thumb wheels to help bed leveling: Thumbwheel M3 with scale 0.01 mm with grip (Nut on bottom) by jamesarm97 - Thingiverse 11
These are not a must but makes leveling the print head easier: Wanhao Duplicator i3 Z-Axis Alignment Posts by zolan - Thingiverse 11
Also one of these cooling fans (stock one isn’t that good):
What material would you be using? or is it any?
its amazing to me the upgrade parts you can print the fan braces would stop it from hanging so low. I have been using pla, I just did print all the thumb screws for the print bed just have to get nuts at the hardware store.
Nice
Hello! How fun that you decided to buy a Wanhao i3. I got one myself this monday and have been using it non-stop since. Check out this video with the perfect settings for the Cura slicer. I have been using these settings on every print (I have changed the layer thickness on some just to try out a more even surface) and it works really good every single time!!
This is actually what I bought I guess technically it isnt glass
Ok I took your advice and bought the 2 items, Do I just use the tape to adhere it to the print bed? Im assuming I have to remove the sheet that was on there to begin with. Do I have to prepare the PEI in any way or just adhere it and go?
Hi,
I would recommend binder clips to attach the bed.
George
Clips bend the glass. I have had this happen to me now use the silicone pads much better
This video describes it very well. The tape is tricky to work with, so watch the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QvZb8ej1aw 4
One thing to be careful of when laying down the tape: while you must try to lay the strips of tape down perfectly side by side, it’s better to have a tiny gap between 2 strips rather than have the 2 strips cross.
Biggest tip is to remove the BuildTak from the bed (be careful! It’s very easy to bend the bed!)
I use these silicone pads http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PPEW52?psc=1&ref_=redir_mobile_desktop&ref_=yo_ii_img 1 to secure the glass to the bed.
I cut them into little 5cm x 5cm squares, and use 9 of them. It makes it very easy to put on or remove the bed, and they are extremely secure.
Plain glass is not a great printing surface however - most thermoplastics don’t stick to it very well without quite a bit of effort.
I recommend these 2 items:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JL8KTXA?psc=1&ref_=redir_mobile_desktop&ref_=yo_ii_img 1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013HJBA4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1
You use the tape to attach the PEI to the top of your plate of glass (the PEI sheet above is enough to make at least 3 glass beds).
PEI is a fantastic material to print on. At 50-70 degrees C other plastics stick to it without any problem, no need for painter’s tape, or wood glue, or slurry or any other nonsense. But as soon as it cools off below that you literally just click the printed object off.
I won’t print without it.
Actually borosilicate is a very nice glass to use. Borosilicate is the glass they use for lab equipment like test tubes. It tends to transfer heat better than ordinary glass. However normal glass with PEI works perfectly fine for me.
Hopefully the pei will work with the borosilicate. I have one more question you seem quite knowledgeable, It seems I have to adjust my z axis to make it parallel to the print bed pretty much every time. Is this normal?
I’m sure it will work. Or just go to the hardware shop and ask them to cut you some normal glass to put the PEI on, before you put PEI on the borosilicate
It doesn’t seem normal that your Z-Axis goes out. Are you sure it’s the axis, and not the bed? I also use the 2 little printed Z axis alignment posts that some posted earlier in the thread (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1138928 2), and in 5 months I have literally only had to recalibrate my Z-axis once (after traveling with the printer).
After printing, when you check with the alignment posts, are they at differing heights?
