1

a bit off topic, but how could improve stringing?

i have a mendel90 but its fitted with a titan extruder from e3d (no clones here) and a full e3dv6 with silicone sock

i use slic3r PE and only changes are start and stop gcode along with the retract lenght and speed (4.5 and 60)

i know it’s a lot but it was the only way i could get a string free benchy and marvin

those 2 test prints come out fine and so does single wall cubes that i use to test extrusion multiplier

i know that the high retract lenght might be the cause of thin cylinders come out “crooked” and brittle, but i cant figure out the right combo of settings

2

Stringing is often caused by too high a nozzle temperature (and/or retraction settings). 4.5mm retraction is really quite a lot (mine are typically never higher than 2mm), so I’d look at reducing nozzle temp.

3

yeah i knew it was something with temp that could do it

i guess i forgot the rule that even the best thermistor is subject to manifactoring tolerances

what test object do you use for dialing in the temp? just a random retract test?

4

I use all sorts of odd models I’ve got lying around on my drive, but mostly I use a 20mm cylinder with a notch cut at one point on the top face. This shape works well for testing retraction, wipe, coasting, etc. and with the notch and Simplify3Ds toolhead preview you can see exactly where a perimeter stops/starts and whether blobs are at the start or end of the loop.

I’ll admit, I do have trouble keeping these settings dialled in. I test and test and get to a point where it seems perfect (or near as I can), then the next time I print with that filament it seems not quite right.

5

Hey guys,

Just wanted to let you know that I’ve moved these last few comments to a new Topic just to keep everything a bit cleaner. Best of luck with your stringing issue! Settings can be a bit of a moving target in my experience…

Best,
Maddie - 3D Hubs

6

yeah, i could not reply anymore because of a stupid antispam limit, even thou i have been on the old talk forum for ages :-/

same thing here… i have like 6 test objects i test each time. My girlfriend/partner sometimes shakes her head and think i’m mad

is your setup also bowden?

i forgot to mention that i use capricorn tube if that makes much of a difference, and i do use the small collect clips that e3d have

i did try and lower my retract to 2mm and lower my temp to 180 from the stock 220, i just got stringing and the layers was not smooth anymore so there was spots where the layers actually got higher or the nozzle hit something

so back to 4.5mm retract at 60mm/s and temp is at 60 for bed and 220 for extruder (stock settings in slic3r PE)

of course the big dream would be to have a pile of cash i did not know what to do with and get either an ultimaker or an prusa mk3… but i have to tweak what i have for now and just hope for the best

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Hi! Unfortunately spam is still a huge threat to any community, that’s why the rules are quite strict. Trust levels on this forum are based on data that wasn’t present in the old forum.

For now I’ve increased your trust level manually, post away!

8

hehe, thanks

I guess the new forum software provides better protection against spam which is a good thing :smiley:

spam is prob one of the reason i was not so active as there where just to much of it

2 Likes
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Good to have you back @Boelle! :smiley:

We’ll be cracking down on spam 100% now that we have the right tools.

10

just wanted to report back that Canola oil sorted my issues

i printed one of those filament filters and put a bit of an kitchen sponge inside and gave it 4 drops of Canola oil and viola… no stringinging and prints come out better. no layer issues and prints stay strong