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Feb 2016

Awesome! Great job!. @Valdane mentioned swapping the non-working motor to the working connector and try. That is a great idea.

MAKESURE you have it powered off when doing this.

Another note, on the RAMPS board the driver chips are a tight fit and the orientation of the board is important and it could be tough to get them all plugged in correctly because of the clearance. just take a look and make sure they are in correctly.

What flavor of firmware are you using, Marlin or Repetier.?

A look at your configuration.h might help also.

Make sure you have the printer powered off when switching the stepper motors, if you do it while energized, well if they were not bad, there is a good chance they are now.

did you try adjusting the amperage using the screw on the RAMPS boards. If they are making noise most likely this is the problem. Make sure you unplug the printer before making any adjustments. Also don’t turn the screw too far the first time, just slowly turn it until it starts to sound better and move.

Have you checked your power supply. You will want to look and see if its set to 220V or 110V. Although its turned on and giving power to your board, it may not be giving power to the components. Most power supplies are automatically set at 220V when assembled/shipped in China. You may have that issue, if so just power down your printer, unplug it from the wall, and flick that little switch to 110V. Plug everything back in, turn it on, and it should connect without having any commands stacking.

Attached is my Configuration.h file. This is the firmware currently loaded onto the printer. I had to upload as a pdf due the file type restrictions, so sorry if it proves a pain.

eseprinting: I will take a look at the power supply as soon as I can, but I do not remember the presence of a switch. I will examine it.

Valdaine: I did switch around the motors. Funny thing is, even when I swapped the motors to a differently labeled pin port, the original assignments still persisted. i.e. when I plugged the X motor into the Z port, manually advancing X in the software or on the LCD still operated the original (X) motor. The same held true for the others. I know you probably think I’m smoking something, but that is what I observed. I’m not entirely sure how to check the voltage, but I will explore the software and onboard interface to see if I can discern that. And I have no clue what a potentiometer is, I’m afraid. I will look that one up.

Thanks, again, for your help, gang!
Configuration_h.pdf 2 (139 KB)