Qidi Tech 1 or Flashforge Creator Pro

wirlybird · 2016-12-14T12:03:55.000Z

I have both the QIDI (2) and the FFCP (2). Both great machines especially starting out. They are straight forward with minimal set up to get going. Lots of support around the web including here. Both dual extrusion and enclosed which is a big plus for filaments like ABS.

The weight is probably due to the QIDI being all metal including side, front and back panels where as the FFCP panels are plastic.

Both side and front clear panels can come off the QIDI. ON the FFCP the door will come off and only the right panel. The left panel will come off bu the Y limit switch is on it so it has to stay in place.

QIDI support is excellent.

I am partial to the QIDI because it was my first printer.

like you after exhaustive research it was down to these two and the reviews were really liking the QIDI as the alternative to the popular FFCP. When I got mine it was $400 less!!

You won’t go wrong with either. I would have no issue getting the QIDI.

wirlybird · 2016-12-14T12:05:20.000Z

Where did the “akowski” come from?!! At first I was thinking it was another clone until you mentioned the wait time.

Tech3design · 2016-12-14T12:39:17.000Z

Bah, dang Apple autocorrect! (and lack of proofreading before clicking [Submit]). Fixed, thanks.

Tech3design · 2016-12-14T12:43:29.000Z

I literally just bought the QIDI Tech 1 for a specific purpose, it is my 4th printer. I also have a Lulzbot Mini, Lulzbot TAZ 6, and a Monoprice Select Mini

i needed the dul extrusion capability pf the QIDI. I actually bought the Flashforge on Amazon then almost immediately cancelled the order and got the QIDI, remembering it was the same printer.

I honestly don’t know about the weight difference but I can vouch for the QIDI being 50lbs. It is built like a tank, all metal. There is some assembly required (instructions are in the SD card inserted in the printer).

Are you dead dead set on these two printers? The only reason I ask is because if you were already considering the FF you should look at the “Original Prusa i3 MK2”. It is $899 for an assembled and calibrated printer and is agreed by many as THE number one 3D printer you can buy today.

The only downside side is there is no way you will be able to get it for him by Christmas. The printer is in such demand there is a 6-8 week backlog. If he can wait, the printing experience will be superior. Not knocking QIDI, I like it and I’m sure he will too, but for just a little bit more you can get a really great printer.

Something to consider… Here’s the URL

http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/53-original-prusa-i3-mk2-3d-printer.html

Didn’t mean to upset the Apple cart. But you’re already looking to spend about what the Prusa costs and there’s literally no comparison. The only downside is having to wait.

wirlybird · 2016-12-14T13:08:10.000Z

HAHA! Had me scratching my head on that one!

HummingbirdHues · 2016-12-14T14:11:55.000Z

I also compared the 2 models and have never regretted my decision. I went with the Flashforge Creator Pro. Bought if off Amazon and loves it!! Loved it so much that we bought a second one. Hope that helps you make a decision. Happy Holidays!

frankkeller · 2016-12-14T14:42:28.000Z

Get the Flashforge Creator Pro!

bobo123 · 2016-12-14T15:47:05.000Z

Thank you so much!!!

bobo123 · 2016-12-14T15:48:42.000Z

You definitely upset the apple cart ;-). Thank you so much for all of your info.

bobo123 · 2016-12-14T15:51:33.000Z

Thank you so much! I am going to copy your response and share it with my father so he can benefit from your experience.

RogerDS · 2016-12-14T20:05:30.000Z

I own a QIDI Tech 1, and my brother has a Flash Forge Creator Pro. I used his Creator Pro before I purchased the QIDI Tech 1, and thought that the Creator Pro was very nice. It prints fast enough and nice, but so does the QIDI Tech 1. But since working on my QIDI Tech 1, I have found some advantages; it has a “high resolution” setting, which takes all the guesswork out of having to change settings. They will both print two colors, Creator Pro has to have the two files merged into one file before it will print, while the QIDI Tech 1 combines files in a similar way it seems to work faster. The QIDI Tech 1 has a more extensive onboard menu. Both show the cooling fan mode in its present state, the opposite of what you might expect, where it shows “Cooling Fan On”, it is “Off”, and must be turned on for each print. One thing about the high resolution setting. Larger objects seem to encounter problems. More Later.

Roger

Tech3design · 2016-12-14T20:09:04.000Z

Not my intent to hijack this thread…but while QIDI fans are listening when I connect to my QIDI via USB to my it is not recognized - at all. Meaning nothing at all happens (no new device recognized by the PC). My only way to use the printer is via the SD card. No big deal, just wondering if I’m missing something?

Also is there a guide somewhere for the Sailfish to fine tune the calibration of the printer? Lots of menu options that I’m not finding explained anywhere. Thanks, and for whatever reason Google doesn’t seem to like me recently.

RogerDS · 2016-12-14T20:27:44.000Z

Try disabling your firewall and Windows Defender. Then install the software. If it shows, but will not connect then Go into your Control Panel, and select Printers and Devices. See if your printer is coming up there. If not try installing a new device. Once it installs the new device look at “Printers and Devcies” to see if it is there. You might have to go into properties to select the com port. My QIDI Tech 1 was a problem at first, but I received help here. My QIDI Tech 1 came up on “Com 3”. Use “Replicator Dual” as the printer selection. The slicer type is the replicator 50, or something with 50 in the selection. I do not have it on this system, because I am at the Phoenix College Library.

Roger

wirlybird · 2016-12-14T20:47:30.000Z

If you haven’t you will need to install the latest replicator G software to get the driver to load, maybe redo it anyway. Do not plug the printer in until after the driver installs. Should go to port 3 or higher.

Then see if repG will see the printer. Select printer type as replicator dual 1 (not 2). Don’t worry about other software until repg sees it.

If not work from there.

Use USB2 port not 3 to start. Short cable and no hubs, extension etc.

There is no real calibration you should need to do in Sailfish firmware. Here is the manual and it will tell you how to do the calibration cube etc. this is really everything you need to know about Sailfish.

http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/sailfish.pdf

Also do not flash the firmware without first contacting QIDI about it. I believe they use a modified version of Sailfish and a flash will brick the board.

Tech3design · 2016-12-14T23:10:25.000Z

Thanks @wirlybird and @RogerDS

Will give those a shot and see how it goes. I figured Windows 10 would at least “see” that something connected regardless of whether there were drivers or not. but it is as if the cable is bad. I will try your suggestions above and if no luck, another cable. If all else fails it is still perfectly usable via the button interface. Thanks again.

MakeCorps · 2016-12-14T23:41:15.000Z

I don’t own a Qidi but I do sell and use Flashforge printers here in Australia. As no one has answered your question about the FFCP weight with any figures I’ll answer it for you. The weight you have for a creator pro is wrong as the Flashforge estimated shipping weight is ~21.5kg (~47lbs - this figure is from Flashforge). The printer weight is ~14.8 kg ( ~32.6 lbs this figure is from Flashforge also).

Best of luck with your printer purchase. Flashforge support is generally great and they’re reliable too (so you probably won’t need it), having said that I have no experience with Qidi (maybe they’re good too?).

Merry Christmas to you and your father

wirlybird · 2016-12-20T12:06:54.000Z

I wish the hood was taller. The feed tubes and cable rub and push hard on the upper lip in the back. If you shorten the tubes so they don’t rub then they are really starting to stretch on bigger prints. I usually do not engage the rear clips on the corners but let them sit up on top to gain a little more clearance but then have to tape things up to fill the gaps.

MakerRx · 2016-12-29T06:58:10.000Z

Flashforge released a redesigned model in 2016. It’s probably the nicest makerbot clone out there now. They got rid of the laser cut hood that you assemble in favor of a solid formed hood. They also added an active cooling fan for PLA printing. Full disclosure I’m a US reseller but if you want to buy one through me I can help you guys get into the 3D printing world… cost effectivly https://www.makerrx.com

rastoma · 2016-12-30T23:38:41.000Z

The XY design is more stable than the i3, usually. But regarding the MK2 i3, the only advantage buying directly from Prusa at that price is it’s already built. It’s 3D printed parts along with off-the-shelf parts. The design is excellent. But it’s an open-sourced printer that anyone can download, print out and build. I’m not knocking the printer. It’s an awesome printer and I don’t have to own one to know. But there’s no difference in it and a $400 kit of the exact same printer bought elsewhere. I know that doesn’t apply for the OP since they are looking for an out-the-box solution. I just wanted to reply regarding it being the best printer you can buy today only because it’s coming directly from Prusa himself.

wirlybird · 2016-12-30T23:51:54.000Z

“But there’s no difference in it and a $400 kit of the exact same printer bought elsewhere.”

Some of this is not really accurate. Yes, you could download and build and buy all of the parts etc. provided you already have a printer and know exactly the part to get. Certainly doable but at what cost?

Where it changes a little is that the firmware is modified and constantly being improved for the printer specific. Also drivers, a version of Slic3r etc. are made specifically for the MK2. This is a big advantage over the clone kits but you do pay more. Not for everyone though.