okay, if this is PLA, you should be using Blue Tape… If it’s ABS, is the bed hot enough? Not directly related, I know, but just to clarify.
This looks like the Jr V2 with the Aluminium Extruder upgrade and I have worked with one of these for ages and they’re quite stable. Have you tried different sliced models? do you have some previously sliced GCODE that you can try and print with?
The first layer does normally print slower, but parts of the print look okay, apart from a little squashed and not sticking particularly well (which is why I asked the first question).
Run the GCODE command M503 and check the line beginning M92. The value for E should be in the 93-96 region. If it is, then the motor should be turning as it should.
Physically, check the screw is not overtight and the temperature not too cold. I normally make sure there is enough tension to provide friction, but not overly tight as the drive gear will start to dig into the filament.
A few ideas there, you may find more answers on help.printrbot.com 2 or by opening a support ticket if you get really stuck
I know about the heat wave - I was in the middle of it (nl)
I’ve read before that the room temperature affects the printing process - especially the quality of the filament. Direct sunlight and a high humidity are killing.
Sadly my problem isn’t temperature related - so I will look further. Thanks for sharing anyway, interesting!
Even for PLA I use my beloved heated-bed. There is only one thing worse than using a glue stick for adhesion and that is blue tape ^^. The problem in the picture was under-extrusion; not enough filament to stick to the bed so it got loose
The sliced models are fine - and I set first layer print speed on purpose on 20m/s.
The M503 is a great tip to check if your motor is set to the right amount of steps per mm!
Just to be sure I unscrew the ‘tensioner’ and put it back together - along with removing the nozzle and cleaning it out that solved my issue!.
UPDATE: as many suggested I removed the nozzle and cleaned it out. Same for the the ‘screw’ part on the extruder. I checked every screw and tighten it where needed. Furthermore I took the ‘tensioner’ apart and screw it back together.
That worked!
Here is a freshly printed bunny to thank you all for your suggestions!
Cool, glad you got it figured out. There is a really nice resource over at bukobot that I have been using for a while now and it works great. Lots less painful than a full tear-down.
nozzle-cleaning [Bukobot 3D Printer Instructions & Docs] 19 Its a really great article and shows exactly what to look for. I have found this necessary especially if going from a very high temp material to something like abs or pla as the nozzle still has a little material in there which can cause flow problems/increased back-pressure in the hotend.
wooooooo nice to know that it works! Great job buddy ! Also, for the printbot, i dont know if somebody told u earlier but when u do longer prints, u must have a cooling system for the extrusion head, for avoid clugs. Like this Extruder Fan Mount for Printrbot Simple by drewsloan - Thingiverse 11
It’s almost silly for me to ask but a lot of problems on my printers arise when the fan that cool down the extruder start failing, almost imperceptible; most of the time when you are not there but it makes the filament softer and thus to under extrude. I’ve been through more than a dozen of those. They still work but they are not that smooth, same on the CTC with the PCB fan.
I used a few old 12v computer fans to blow on the Printers to keep them a lil cool. They can get pretty hot on long prints. A small 12v and put the bot on some feet to allow air travel to pass under the bot.
(nl)
