What temp/material are you running?
KCT
May 27, 2015, 4:07pm
5
Yes Xtra shell would do the trick.
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First try tightening the short belts connecting the x and y motors to the guide rods. That should help a bit.
It also looks like you’re running the plastic slightly too hot, about 5°c less might help, especially with the warping around the bottom support.
Upping the infill overlap or just the flow rate might help as well. If the part is going to be under any load, then the higher flow will help a lot.
Also, try to keep at least 6-8 layers for the top/bottom infill.
If you’re having issues with support, the best bet would be to design your own, that you can remove later. If you have a 0.4 nozzle and layers under 0.15, a simple double wall beneath the rod will be enough and it’s easy to remove afterwards.
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Like Munjeni says, try upping the outline overlap percentage: infill > outline overlap (mines on 20%) should get rid of those gaps between infill and shell.
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Looks a bit like under extrusion - which can be from too fast, too cold etc. (slow down and heat up :))
In S3D it is worth checking you have your nozzle size at 0.4 and extrusion width 0.4
in Advanced use “gap fill when necessary”
plus I normally use 4-6 layers on the base and 8 on the top when I am slicing 0.15
James
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I suppose that your problem is caused by slack belts. to verify this print a large circle and check if the geometry is correct. If you obtain an ellipse you must tighten the belts, moving the steppers properly.
ecady
May 27, 2015, 5:44pm
10
In your infill properties window change the infill “overfill” (something like that, cant think of them item currently) to 60%. I have not tried it lower than 60% but 60% seems to work. This means that the infill will go over the outer shells by 60% vs the std 20% that it is set too.
Btw I have an Ultimaker 2 Extended I have had for about 3 weeks or so and had to learn this one the hard way with lots of bad prints.I love simplify but takes some times to get the right settings for the printer and what you want to accomplish. I also print at 230C which a bit over the spec of the material.
What temperature are you melting the PLA at?
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Im using the same 3d Printer so i will try your settings you mentioned, I’ll repost when i finish my print.
Oh yea i think im running the extruder temp at 205
My nozzle size is correct and the extrusion width was set to “auto” should i put manual and change it to 0.4 as well… its grayed out on (0.48)
I also raised the layers to 6 on top and bottom because i need both faces to be pretty clean
Yea i was thinking about making my own support but how? should i use solidworks or autocad and add like triangle supports or like you said double walls beneath my design or is there a way to import my own, i see the import option in Simplify3D but no idea where to begin
PLA at 205, just changed to 200c to see if change occurs
Okay so after reading all the suggestions, here are all my settings with the changes mentioned. Please let me know if you see anything i can do different.
FYI I am using PLA on a Ultimaker 2 Extended
OKay checked this possiblity but i dont think its the issue, game em all a nice tighten though. The ultimaker robot did fairly well but a little drooping on the bottom below the body
Then you could use this great visual guide
visual guide
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Awesome…great guide thank you!
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Ultimakers handle PLA at 225-230 quite well. Both of mine are running right now at 230.
Alrighty I’ll try to raise the temp but i thought someone stated it was too high in regards to the photo
Your definitely not to hot if your only at 205 on an ultimaker. That I can say for sure. Up the temp and see if it helps.
The simplest way would be to open it in solidworks or even blender and add a box 0.8 mm wide along the length, intersecting the model. I use Rhino for my modeling and it’s about 3 clicks of work there. Just add some geometry that you can cut off later to hold it down. Also, Cura has a very good line support
The temp should be between 190 and 210 for pla, if you’re printing slow, go for a lower temperature.
ecady
May 27, 2015, 9:17pm
23
The infill overlap I was referring to was the infill and walls not touching and therefore giving you a bad part with no structure. I you use this feature at 60% it will give a better result since the infill will overlap the outside shell more and be more structurally sound.
205C as others has said is way to low.
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