Im using the same 3d Printer so i will try your settings you mentioned, I’ll repost when i finish my print.
Oh yea i think im running the extruder temp at 205
My nozzle size is correct and the extrusion width was set to “auto” should i put manual and change it to 0.4 as well… its grayed out on (0.48)
I also raised the layers to 6 on top and bottom because i need both faces to be pretty clean
Yea i was thinking about making my own support but how? should i use solidworks or autocad and add like triangle supports or like you said double walls beneath my design or is there a way to import my own, i see the import option in Simplify3D but no idea where to begin
PLA at 205, just changed to 200c to see if change occurs
Okay so after reading all the suggestions, here are all my settings with the changes mentioned. Please let me know if you see anything i can do different.
FYI I am using PLA on a Ultimaker 2 Extended
OKay checked this possiblity but i dont think its the issue, game em all a nice tighten though. The ultimaker robot did fairly well but a little drooping on the bottom below the body
Then you could use this great visual guide
visual guide
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Awesome…great guide thank you!
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Ultimakers handle PLA at 225-230 quite well. Both of mine are running right now at 230.
Alrighty I’ll try to raise the temp but i thought someone stated it was too high in regards to the photo
Your definitely not to hot if your only at 205 on an ultimaker. That I can say for sure. Up the temp and see if it helps.
The simplest way would be to open it in solidworks or even blender and add a box 0.8 mm wide along the length, intersecting the model. I use Rhino for my modeling and it’s about 3 clicks of work there. Just add some geometry that you can cut off later to hold it down. Also, Cura has a very good line support
The temp should be between 190 and 210 for pla, if you’re printing slow, go for a lower temperature.
ecady
May 27, 2015, 9:17pm
23
The infill overlap I was referring to was the infill and walls not touching and therefore giving you a bad part with no structure. I you use this feature at 60% it will give a better result since the infill will overlap the outside shell more and be more structurally sound.
205C as others has said is way to low.
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You can also try to set the filament diameter a little lower (2,70/2,75/2,80mm), This will give you more extrusion.
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You should get a nice print by reducing the speed of your print. Keep layer height at 0.15 and make changes to your materials : For PLA keep Temp 230 deg C, Build Plate: 80, Cooling Fan : 100%. Also, add supports, Touching Build Plate.
get rid of the standard UM2 fan mount!!! there are plenty of updated versions that you can print on youmagine.
this will give your layer cooling a much better chance! this had a massive effect for me on my UM2.
gr5org
May 29, 2015, 2:32am
27
I agree with John - you have some underextrusion - most likely printing too cold and/or too fast. Try printing at 210 or 220 and cut speed in half. UM2 can print up to 10 cubic mm per second at 230C but best to keep it under half that speed (5 mm^3/sec) at 230C. At 200C the PLA is much more viscous and difficult to shove all that PLA through that tiny hole so the filament slips in the feeder. I recommend you post the above pictures on the UM forums also - lots of good help there.
Thats where i did post this issue first but I have gotten way more responses on 3D hubs. Either way I think I may have finally got it down after a bunch of tweaking and trial and errors. Thank you everyone!
cool - what worked in the end?
It was really a result of all the suggestions above haha, I just had to turn up the heat, slow it down a bit, add more layers to shells, a few other things and im pretty happy with my results now, also just printed a new fan duct and installed with a breeze
