That’s pretty normal. These bots are very susceptible to EMI, and that is a symptom. If you are running Sailfish, you can press the right button, which will reload the screen properly.
If it concerns you, you can re route all the wiring away from your LCD ribbon cable under your bot.
I just re-read your OP, you say you can change temps from the menu? It has been a while since I ran non sailfish firmware, but I don’t think that that is a stock feature. Some of the cloner’s pull more bits of sailfish into their code, mainly the larger then 2G SD card. You should be able to press right to refresh the screen.
I’m running sailfish. Actually, it has done this in the first print I did which originally caused me to upgrade the firmware in the first place as I was wondering if something on the rom might be corrupted.
I’ll look into that, thanks. I’m considering some ESD shielding anyway to make sure the bot doesn’t fry down suddenly due to me touching something. It’s attracting a LOT of dust anyway to I figure the process of printing itself seems to cause a lot of static buildup by itself too.
I have been lucky enough to not have this issue with the original firmware. I have heard of this from various users. My only recommendation would be to update to sailfish, I have heard it gets rid of this issue.
Does it display properly if you’re not printing?
you could try to reset the motherboard from factory.
No I’m printing a single extrusion model from SD currently and this happened 4 times during the print already. But pressing right solves it, see the other comments.
I can’t agree with you. I have 4 machines without sailfish and get more instances of the “garbled lcd screen” on those vs 8 machines with sailfish. Unless I misunderstood you.
Have you checked the connections on the LCD or from LCD to PC board? I did not have this issue at all but sometimes things get loose from all the vibration that is going on as the printer is working. Once I had a loose extruder motor connector that was only coming loose while printing, jamming the filament inside and I thought it was just bad filament…
The printer did the garbled LCD even before upgrading to sailfish, constantly. Sometimes even with broken prints when it did it (maybe unrelated but seemes to correlate). Now it only garbles the screen but prints perfectly.