Nozzle doesn’t have any clicking or wobble when you grab it and try to move it
Grub screws on pulleys are all TIGHT. This one is very difficult to see, and can cause this sort of issue
Belts are tight
Bed doesn’t have any wobble when you grab it and move it
Extruder hobbs are concentric to shaft (again, very difficult to check), you’ve got to watch the idler pulley as the extruder bolt goes through a revolution to see if the idler pulley moves slightly in and out
Check to see if the layers are offset, or if the extrusion is fatter for one layer. This will tell you whether it’s a mechanical positioning issue, or an extrusion issue. The way to check this is to pick a layer that pokes out on one side of the cube, and see if it pokes in or out on the other side of the cube.
Print as tall as you can, make it tiny like the size of the Z shaft and you’ll see if the bed is moving to the sides while going down for each layer or not. If the shaft is not fully straight or the bed attachment is loose or misaligned you will see different patterns on the print. You can also exchange the step motor drivers to see if they are causing this issue.
Yes, It is ABS. Thanks for the quick reply. The parts are usable, but I really prefer to have clean, parts that are aesthetically nice as well. Do you think it is possible to have a poorly machined hobbed bolt, and going to a direct drive would fix this?
Currently using Repetier, and slicing with CuraEngine. But again, i have tried using Slicer and Pronterface, as well as Cura Software. Octave ABS Filament. Print speed: 50 mm/s Extruder temp: have tried anywhere 215C to 2550C. Currently at 220. Bed temp: 80C Layer height: .2mm Nozzle size: .3mm Using a geared extruder with an 8mm hobbed bolt.
If the layers on the tall cylinder aren’t lining up very nicely, (Also, it is SUPER brittle. Possibly a key to part of the problem) what kinds of things can I try? My Z-axis doesn’t appear to have any wobble. But, the layers on the cylinder look just like the layers on the cube, however, they lined up a little better. Thoughts?
Again with a .3 nozzle have you slowed down the print speed a lot. You seem to be at 3000mm/min, that is pretty fast. I would try a single wall cube no top or bottom no infill at 230 temp and 1000-1500mm/min and see how it comes out. Then measure the height and side thickness and see how close to the measurements they are. This will tell you where to start some settings.
You have to get to basics to see where the issue is.
Slow your print down to 15mm/s this time print a short (like 5 to 10 layers) but very wide cylinder (max bed size) if you still see the same issue then it’s probably the motor driver(s) or like a power issue that fools the drivers. Have you tried a UPS?
It’s certainly possible that the hobbed bolt is at fault. You can check your print to confirm, see if the layer is fatter all the way around the print, or if the layers are offset from each other. If the layer is fatter all the way around, then a new extruder will help.
Uninterruptible power supply, it has many filters that removes all the noises of the power grid and will give your printer a very clean and stable 110v 60hz/220v 50hz , also some of them have internal batteries so you can continue printing for a while even during blackouts.
Still working on my problem. I have done large and small cylinders and cubes with not top or bottom, 1 wall, and 0% infill. I have the same look of prints at different layer heights too. The wall thickness measures out okay. I have tried extrusion rates both directions, temperatures in both directions. I tried a z axis backlash fix with a nut above x ends a spring in between, tightened all belts and grub screws, checked extruder tension, checked for z wobble, (VERY minimal), and I have autotuned my PID settings. Nothing is fixed. I can’t seem to fix it. Anyone have any other ideas? Direct drive aluminum extruder?
Does anyone have any personal experience with one type of an extruder printing better than another? Thoughts and comments appreciated.
