I havd checked that on every filament i have used. So far so food. I am currently sing octave ABS, but i have used Matterhackers, Jet, Makerbot, Gizmodorks, Hatchbox, all with same result. Also, i will try the cylinder for sure. How tall would you recommend?
Skip to main content
From your other comment I am guessing this is ABS.
First I would cut the print speed in half and see how it goes. Also try the print with one shell and no top/bottom or infil and see how the sides come out.
I think 230 is good for ABS and I run about 100 on the bed (different printer)
If the printer is not enclosed ABS is going to give you problems. But, your print isn’t that bad considering. More tuning I think.
Again with a .3 nozzle have you slowed down the print speed a lot. You seem to be at 3000mm/min, that is pretty fast. I would try a single wall cube no top or bottom no infill at 230 temp and 1000-1500mm/min and see how it comes out. Then measure the height and side thickness and see how close to the measurements they are. This will tell you where to start some settings.
You have to get to basics to see where the issue is.
I went down to 2400mm/min. I will try going slower tonight. Along with measuring my thickness results.
What Is the best way to calculate extruder steps?
Slow your print down to 15mm/s this time print a short (like 5 to 10 layers) but very wide cylinder (max bed size) if you still see the same issue then it’s probably the motor driver(s) or like a power issue that fools the drivers. Have you tried a UPS?
It’s certainly possible that the hobbed bolt is at fault. You can check your print to confirm, see if the layer is fatter all the way around the print, or if the layers are offset from each other. If the layer is fatter all the way around, then a new extruder will help.
To me it looks like your hot end temperature is varying too much. You may need to look up some information on how to do PID tuning.
If I do a PID autotune, and input the values, should that be accurate enough?
Yeah, most people use PID autotune
Uninterruptible power supply, it has many filters that removes all the noises of the power grid and will give your printer a very clean and stable 110v 60hz/220v 50hz , also some of them have internal batteries so you can continue printing for a while even during blackouts.
Still working on my problem. I have done large and small cylinders and cubes with not top or bottom, 1 wall, and 0% infill. I have the same look of prints at different layer heights too. The wall thickness measures out okay. I have tried extrusion rates both directions, temperatures in both directions. I tried a z axis backlash fix with a nut above x ends a spring in between, tightened all belts and grub screws, checked extruder tension, checked for z wobble, (VERY minimal), and I have autotuned my PID settings. Nothing is fixed. I can’t seem to fix it. Anyone have any other ideas? Direct drive aluminum extruder?
Does anyone have any personal experience with one type of an extruder printing better than another? Thoughts and comments appreciated.