Go to homepage
3D Printing
3D Printing Service
FDM SLA/DLP SLS MJF DMLS/SLM Material Jetting
CNC Machining
CNC Machining Service
CNC Milling CNC Turning Surface Finishing Part Marking
Injection Molding
Sheet Metal Fabrication
Resources
3D Printing Guide CNC Machining Guide Injection Molding Guide Metal 3D Printing Guide Knowledge Base Webinars Help Center
Get instant quote
Dec 2016
21 / 42
Dec 2016
Dec 2016
Nutz3d
Dec '16

Hey

This is a great printer for the price, but does take a good bit of tweaking and patience. I’ve made numerous modifications and documented some of them in a blog here http://www.nutz3d.com/ 2

I had trouble finding the stock firmware for it and had to start with current Marlin release and modify the parameters by recording the values from LCD and then translating them in to the firmware parameters.

You might also find that the boot loader hasn’t been programmed in to your Mega2560 processor which will stop you uploading new firmware. I did manage to crack this and have detailed it in the blog too.

I had some great prints intially but got a few jams to have upgraded to a proper E3D v6 hotend after trying the E3D clones - go straight for the real thing. I also only use Verbatim filament as it rarely jams. Make sure your bed screws don’t come loose, use some loctite on them as this will affect accuracy and layers will not be on top of each other. I’ve also upgraded the threaded bar to lead screws which much improved my layer step.

Good luck and I’m happy to share my Marlin branch with you or help out with anything else.

Cheers

Dave

Mirth
Dec '16

Well here’s some more love for the machine… It printed immediately and acceptably out of the box, once I designed and installed my E3D V6 upgrade and the Z leadscrews print quality has been excellent, on par if not better than an FF Dreamer I’ve had prints from. I also only ever print with cheap ($10) filaments and have never had a reason to complain.

Most of this is due to budget, I don’t have the money to throw around for expensive filaments and a genuine E3D, but for the very low prices I pay for this stuff I’m getting very good results!

dannem
Dec '16

Thx and nice channel! Im home with a sick kid today so while he watches minecraft ill plow true you videos and subbed. I am quite overwhelmed by the amount of people giving advice and helping. Thx!

Mirth
Dec '16

I hope he watches Mumbo Jumbo! While still completely kid friendly Mumbo’s style is advanced enough that this 20 year old enjoys it (or at least that’s the excuse I keep telling myself)

I tend to upload on Wednesdays, in fact tomorrow I’m uploading a rather interesting E3D V6 hotend upgrade you may like.

And it’s true, a community that shares together cares together :slight_smile:

F_P_Ideenfabrik
Dec '16

Hoi,
thats pretty simple:
in the description is REPETIER-HOST and PRINTRUN (i.e.) the Software for your Computer:
Instead of Printrun you can use similiar software like CURA etc.
Mostly MARLIN is installed as Firmware, but depending also on the Board the printer has.
i.e. GT2560…
Regards

dannem
Dec '16

Oh i hate beetles… You can only change so much to make it better but i think i will learn more with this than a off the shelf good printer. I have always learned more from fixing problems and solving them. For me its more fun. I only wished i had more free time. And google and youtube arent always the best way to learn. Forums like this is awsome! Thanx

dannem
Dec '16

Hes only 8 so he looks at Swedish video mostly but i will show him the channel. Good tip!

BillDevine
Dec '16

First let me say that I purchased one of these cheap printers made in China.

I had lots of problem assembling it as one of the lead screw nuts was bad (z axis).

Next the circuit board (arduino processor) has had nothing but problems.

I cannot seem to push enough power to the z axis motors infact the wires from the power supply began to melt.

The driver chips (driving the motors) do not have heat sinks and acutally are under rated in my estimate which is probably why I cannot deliver enough power to the z axis motors. Then I have had display problems, which I still have, I plan on buying a different control board and hopefully resolve the problems associated with this one.

I am not saying you will have these problems but they are some things you may run into with cheap Chinese printers.

Mason_Klenklen
Dec '16

Get on youtube and find thomas sanladerer’s channel. He covers printer basic and the firmware and software tool chain you will use.

av8r1
Dec '16

Welcome to the fun, frustrating world of 3D printing. There’s a lot to take in, so don’t worry.

Building your own 3D printer is a great way to get started, since you know what everything does. You won’t treat it like an Epson that you’re afraid to open up. When building a printer, make sure everything is square. It is absolutely important that the three axes are perpendicular.

You’re more than likely going to need the Arduino software. Go ahead and grab that, and read up about how Arduino works. The controller board that comes with your printer is more than likely going to be Arduino compatible, and this is the software you need to use to get the firmware onto the board.

You’ll probably start with Marlin firmware. It’s a big series of files but not to worry, the only one you really need to deal with is Configuration.h. All the settings for dimensions, temperatures, end stops etc are in there.

You’ll want to have a functional understanding of G-Code. G-Code is the language of CNC machines. It looks a lot harder than it is, and a complete reference can be found on the Reprap wiki (google 'g code reprap" ). This will help you set up your before print and after print routines, makes it a bit easier to calibrate the machine, and will eventually allow you to pull off some cool printer fu by directly editing part files.

I recommend Tech2C’s youtube channel. In addition to his fun Oz accent, he’s got some great information on calibration, upgrades, different filaments, and even building your own printer from scratch.

Thingiverse is a good resource for objects to print. You’ll probably want to start out downloading STL files rather than designing your own models. There you can find parts to help calibrate and test your printer.

You will need a slicer. That turns an STL model into G-Code your printer can read. I have experience with three: Slic3r, Cura, and Simplify3D. Slic3r is free, and it gives you a lot of options for how to set the printer up, but it can be difficult to dial in if you’re new. Cura is made by Ultimaker and released to anyone who wants it for free. It’s my go-to slicer as it’s simple to use and has some neat “magic” features, but it can be difficult to customize and it’s a little schizophrenic when doing things with a lot of bolt holes. Simplify3D is the best on the market, but it costs $150.

Good luck, have fun, and enjoy the process of drinking from a fire hose!

Onemosquitos
Dec '16

Sturdy and Reliable But you have to Calibrate runs on Merlin with a All in one board and electronic Motor tuning worth what you payed for it Limited to PLA and ABS but you can use PETG and HIPS I warn you not to get a Nozzle smaller then 0.035 thicker more viscus plastics and low Temp plastics (if you intend to cast part’s) will burn and Jam the Nozzle. Also throw out that Aluminum hot end and Use a Block, Cartridge Heater and Brass Barrel. Pain to set up but if you get a Jam it is easy to clear.