I have a Solidoodle Workbench. It’s dual extruder.
I am printing with PLA at 190 degrees.
I have noticed plastic dripping from the top of both nozzles. I’m not talking about the dripping that normally happens from the opening of the nozzle. From what I can tell, its coming from between the heating element and the nozzle, like the nozzle isn’t seated well. I removed the middle fan assembly, and was able to loosen the set screws and slide both nozzles out.
I’m looking at the nozzles and trying to decide if there is anything I can do to correct the problem. This video looks promising.
The video shows how to remove the nozzle and re-seat it. Before I do this procedure, I wanted to see if I could get any other advice.
Also, the video concentrates on cleaning a clog of ABS using acetone. I don’t think that will help with my PLA.
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I would buy another hotend, as Solidoodle hotends are utter crap, compared to ex. E3D or the cheaper j-heads. Although you may need another mount on the printer. I have the sd3 so I don’t know if anyone has designed 3rd party mounts for the newer models.
I’ll follow the thread so, I will answer more questions you might have 
merry Christmas
SOC3D
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Can you take some pictures of the nozzle and heatblock?
I’ve seen E3D and other nozzles leak the same way. Typically if there is a heatbreak, a heaterblock and a nozzle you have to screw the heat break into the heatblock all the way and then screw the nozzle in to ensure it mates with the end of the heatbreak. The two should be touching inside the heatblock. This is only applicable to models that have these three parts as some hotends use the nozzle as the heatbreak. I’ll add some pictures in a moment.
For cleaning we use fire (propane or mapp) for PLA, ABS, Polycarb, NinjaFlex, etc. Especially when changing material types. Set the nozzle with the hole facing up on a pair of tweezers (do not squeeze the nozzle with pliers channel locks or clamps!) heat it until it’s red hot, wait until it’s cool and tap out any plastic debris. That’s only if a drill bit and a 250 degree nozzle temp doesn’t clear out the clog.
EDIT: Looks like SD uses the other nozzle type: http://www.solidoodle.com/parts-barrel-nozzle, http://www.solidoodle.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=63\_69&product\_id=59 so if it’s leaking from the top, there is a cooling issue on the hotend.
Clean it out. Tighten the “nozzle” to the heater block while hot.
If it is clogged that’s different from leaking. I’ve gotten debris jammed in the nozzle tip before. Best way to fix was using a strand of wire push the object back up through the hot end while hot.
After some more disassembly, I think I have a better idea whats going on. I had to remove some insulating tube that was shrink wrapped around the head. I don’t know what material it was, but even the maintenance videos on the Solidoodle site don’t show the tape on the print head, so I’m assuming it isn’t needed.
So it seems like the nozzle is not seated well against the threaded tube. I believe the plastic is leaking up the threads and out these holes on the heater block. (see attachment) The nozzle seems tight against the heater block, so the easiest exit is these holes. I don’t know what they are for, but if it wasn’t here, the leak would be where the threaded tube enters the heating block. I’m thinking now, I need to remove the nozzle, and put it back on tighter, possibly with some Teflon tap, Then use some Kapton tape to re-attach the sensor.
I might be able to loosen up everything and tighten it all up without removing the sensor, but that seems risky.
It’s too bad that both of my extruders are having the same problem. It might be a production issue.
Those holes are for the temp sensor right?!
no, the sensor is taped to the side of the nozzle.
I’m surprised that they sell the barrel and nozzle. It kind of implies that it’s OK to do my own repair work on this. So looking at this picture tells me there is no heat break. What did you mean by a cooling issue? Can this be fixed by changing printer settings?
I see that but someone drilled holes in the heater block for a sensor. If plastics is coming from those holes this hot end block is ruined.
It came that way, new from the factory. Like I said, if the plastic is leaking up the threads, this is just the first place it can escape. If the holes were not there, it would leak out the top where the barrel enters the heater block. I may be wrong, but the real problem is the plastic is leaking up the threads, which indicates that the barrel is not seated well in the nozzle.
I want to add, that I am very thankful for the help I am getting here!
After watching the guys videos I see the brass tube through his “holes” and hes TApIng the sensor. Is that the official solidoodle design? If you ask me, I say stop taping everything and do it right.
Do you think this will seat the nozzle against the barrel better? I don.t see any leaking between the nozzle and the heater block, so I am assuming that they are already as tight to each other as they can be.
yes i see now. I wasn’t familiar with this design.
What are the holes for chuck?
Maybe the barrels bevel isn’t meeting with the nozzle’s bevel?
No clue. I"m a noob. This is my first printer, and I was actually very nervous tearing the extruder down to this level.
Have you tried to tighten it up while it is hot?
That’s what I’m thinking. The reason I posted the video, is that is hows how to break it down and build it back up. Maybe some Teflon tape on the threads would help as well. If I break this down further so I can re-seat the nozzle against the bevel, I think I will need to get some Kapton tape to re-attach the sensor.
