When will someone join 3D hubs with a metal printer?

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I need to print out some parts soon for a mechanized Iron Man boot. imaterialize just costs an arm and a leg for it.

hey James, you should definitely look into using ProtoPasta materials. @AlexDick should be able to help more, but they have some stainless steel and iron composites that are definitely worth the look: Talk Manufacturing | Hubs

Yes ProPasta Filament. You can buy at MakerGeeks, free shipping

Machining metal is cheaper than printing it. Can you upload the models?

Yeah, those machines are pricey. Shapeways.com. You can print earrings and small pendants, but anything bigger or volumetric is going to be stupid expensive.

The printers are not only very expensive to purchase, but very expensive to run. I’ve heard through the grape vine (so correct me if I’m wrong) that it can cost as much as $20,000 to run a full print run on a DMLS machine.

The chamber has to be flooded with inert gasses, the metal powder is very expensive and cannot be recycled after the fact, prints are liable to fail from time to time, and just the energy cost of running the laser add up.

Shapeways, Sculpteo, and iMaterialise costs are high for a reason.

You may want to consider having parts cast or machined. As mentioned, it’s often a lot less expensive. I know Studio Fathom in Oakland does some of this kind of stuff. They’re nice folks over there. Give them a call, explain what your project is and your budget and see what they recommend.

@james4411

“metal” FDM printer filament is not the same as actual metal, strength is nowhere close.Not to mention the terrible print quality.

You have 2 better options:

Option 1: Print castable resin if you need small complex, precision parts then send them to a facility that can cast the resin parts.(This is how jewelry is made)

Option 2: Contact a Local machine shop.(I know a few experienced shops that will get the job done in case you can’t find them)

Thank you for your suggestion!

I will check out MakerGeeks regardless! Thank you!

I know, but I believe that sooner than later we will have access to some kind of less expensive metal based 3D printing.

Hey great idea with the casting, I will look more into it for sure. I think I have heard of Studio Fathom when I was up at the San Mateo Maker Fair.

Castable resin sounds like something I could give a try! Any facilities that you would recommend that can create small aluminum or steel parts?

I can help you with the castable resin. For the machine shop, “The build shop” has a small cnc. Our Google a machine shop close to you.

The issue with “printing” metal is that it does not have a physical state between liquid and solid. This has been overcome to an extent with some new materials but they aren’t human friendly. I can do lost PLA or wax casting cheaply up to 20 kgs!!! The other way I have access to do metal is supersonic spray technology. That system just sprays powdered metal (what ever you want) at 2x speed of sound at a plate or object. The testing I did was to lay down a line of aluminium 1mm thick and 10 mm wide in a heat trace pattern for a 3d printer on glass. I have also coated 3D printed ABS with this technology with great success.

I would like to see images of the process you are describing @cdeschrun. It sounds really cool.

http://www.supersonicspray.com/ That is the link to the technology. Here is a test piece we did to see if the process would destroy the ABS. The casting process I do at the University of Windsor. I do have plans to move the foundry to our factory in the summer.

Hey James, here is a link to some casting goodness. There are new “wax” filaments out there for 3d printers that are specifically designed for casting with little residue left over. New 3D Printer Filament Brings Lost-Wax Casting To Your Desktop - Make:

Desktop foundry: check “field” metal {FYI: many ‘low melting point’ metals are poisonous!!! }

Cheers

Chris

Hey there,

may i ask you for what purpose you need those metal parts ? When it’s about the optic then metal composite filaments will do the job if you get good post-work on them done.

Also you might concider to find someone that prints in electrically conductive material, then you can use electrolythical galvanisation (a method where your part is in a tank full of metal dissolved in acid or similar and by applying DC to another metal part in the tank and your part the metal will “flow” to your part while the acid dissolves the other metal part to provide further metal) This method is not for precision ! I plan to use it with copper, to print the statue of liberty in such conductive filament, then surround it with a copper layer like mentioned above and then i try to get that green patina look on the copper.

If you want the metal parts for strength then try to find a industrial buisness with a CNC machine.

-Marius

Hey James!

Your dreams just came true. We have a Concept Laser MLab metal sintering printer. We’re in the process of testing the tensile prints and will soon be appearing here on 3D Hubs. We print stainless steel and bronze currently. This machine uses no wax or plastic in the process, only the powder itself, creating the strongest possible print. The build envelope is 90mmx90mmx80mm. Average print is around 500euro, but multiples bring down cost-per-piece significantly. We are also exploring finishing technique for the more aesthetically pleasing print. Check out the hub for some recent photo’s. Ciao

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