Your Marvin looks amazing! What fill setup, layer thickness and printing speed have you used?
I ordered black ABS from Ink Filament (http://www.3d-printerstore.ch/3D-Filament/3D-Filament-1-75-mm/ABS-Filament-1-75mm:::49\_51\_55.html?MODsid=vvs7thm41ne63s1l5gm5ih3ns2) and it worked really well without any change of the printer setup, even with door closed.
I’ve never tried PLA so far. I’m working with Mac so I can’t use the mod, so sad.
Let me know.
It was the UP abs filament, 0.2, standard temp settings, minimum fill, support base only, with raft add support for 10 degrees or more 3 surface layers.
i just found this youtube channel which seems great for material reviews so now in my favourites, he uses the up mini…
maybe you can get a cheap old laptop off ebay to use PC and hack for a very small amount…
Or just do a hardware mod for temp instead like a linked above. There is no point leaving the doors open for ABS as it doesn’t have a crazy low softening point like PLA. A little bit of fan coming through the wind barrier is enough if it needs help to firm up.
I looked at both hardware and software temp solutions, opted for the software one due to the level of customisation between layers too, the reason I printed with door open was because I have modded by board from the standard 50c to the 100c(but generally achieve 85-90c) so need to disperse that extra heat on small prints, I just have a USB fan that blows in and up and out the top (lid open) I modded the board because larger prints were warping at the edges with my up.
The mod for the hotter bed is to solder one of these in parallel to the one on the bottom of the hot plate, 5 min job Amazon.co.uk
The suggestion to do the hardware mod was in addition to your response to the Mac user.
Good you’ve done the bed heater mod - it’s essential but you do not need to open the doors. Your issue is not because the area around the print was too hot it is because the print was being printed too hot and not cooler fast enough. This is what the wind barrier is for. For ABS you want the surrounds as hot as possible… it does’t matter too much for your small print but it will for others. For PLA, you want the opposite with the surrounds and bed as cool as possible. Chances are you will struggle with PLA on any longer prints on a Mini anyway without serious cooling direct into the extruder.
I am just trying to help you out as an experienced Up user. I’ve only done nearly a thousand prints on my Ups (kid you not), helped a few thousand Up users with their print issues … if you want to take the advice it’s up to you.
Thanks. I am going to give this a try. I never thought to use acetone to strengthen the layer bond. New tool for the 3D printing tool box.
Thanks for the feedback. I watched a few YouTube clips to learn the process. I have never dipped or had any physical contact with the acetone with my ventures. I use an old electric hotplate (camping one) and an old coffee peculator glass pot. I heat the glass pot gently and then add some acetone (not much at all), I only heat it enough to see the vapours running down the outside of the pot (not coming out the top) and then hang the print in there for about 30 seconds and then take out to dry, the finish is as per glossy marv above, I have not seen any loss in detail as yet, though I accept sharp straight edges may become slightly rounded depending on the level of exposure
This was the video I found dead good http://prometheusrising.net/2013/04/01/prhi-acetone-treatment-for-abs-3d-printer-parts-video/
the idea of acetone and any naked flames is danger danger, I did read about a couple of guys burning their garage down trying it this way…
I hear your concern, and that’s why I said : Turn off the gas - this is an important step !!
In fact, your electric hotplate could be just as dangerous as a naked gas flame.
Acetone vapor is heavier than air, so any vapor that gets out your container is going to sink / drop.
Many electrical appliances have some sort of thermostat controlled mechanical switch that regulates the temperature, and even a small spark internally could ignite the vapor.
When I first started experimenting with acetone vapor, I was using a deep ceramic pot slow cooker which took about 20 minutes to warm up, and even then I was very careful to turn off and unplug the mains before adding the acetone. The ceramic pot held the heat for a long time and that was enough to vaporize the acetone.
My use of a tin pot on a gas stove is the exact same thing, except the pot is heated in about 60 seconds, instead of 20 minutes. In both cases, the power / flame / ignition source is removed before adding the acetone.
I admit that the tin pot does cool faster than the ceramic pot, but I am usually not treating more than 1 or 2 pieces at a time, and the speed of using the gas cooker is a big benefit to an impatient person like me.
Some great safety advice there, I fully agree. I personally always do this outside too as an extra precaution.
have you tried the fix up hack software & play with the settings
