First on leveling. Only level with the nozzle directly over the leveling screws the rest will follow and as you have found you will chase it forever.
The gantry can be slightly lower when in the middle of the plate making the nozzle slightly lower. This is from the weight of it and is normal.
Using glass can help to account for any irregularities in the build platform as long as it is not super thin glass.
cobnut
June 26, 2017, 11:49am
5
Hi @Johnnyo1012 are you adjusting more than one screw at once? I found when I first got my Pro that you need to adjust at least two of the screws at once when levelling the bed, if you turn just one it tends overly adjust the other points. When levelling, if I need to be adjusting the front screw I’ll usually adjust the two back screws by half a turn to every full turn of the front screw and so on. Sometimes I go through the levelling process more than once.
I think it’s unlikely that the bed itself is physically (and permanently) warped, it’s more likely just a levelling issue. If it is warped you really need to replace it.
My glass actually came with the printer when I bought it, it was a bundled package.
Where do I get glass for it? Yes, I am using more than 1 screw.
Amazon, mcmaster carr are a couple places.
I couldn’t find anything on amazon could you?
I usually buy my glass plates from this PrintinZ. This one should fit the creator pro: http://www.printinz.com/borosilicate-glass-3d-printer-bed-3-3mm-x-152mm-x-228mm/
What is a good thickness for a glass bed?
Probably around 3-5 mm. Type of glass will make a difference though. If you are only going to print PLA or other materials that won’t require a bed then any glass should do. Otherwise most tempered glass will work up to 80C. Anything higher than 80C for a heated bed I would recommend going with Borosilicate.
We are going to print ABS, PLA and other exotics.
Would a 9" x 6" work from this link? What thickness?
Thanks.
SOC3D
June 26, 2017, 5:32pm
13
The zero maintenance way:
Step One: Print a Shim
FlashForge/PowerSpec glass-bed z-axis shim by johngiachero - Thingiverse (or any other z-axis shim, we have our own for internal use)
Step Two: Clip the glass on with anything
https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/WBG2CopgmcCQNE1I87e3QLrVw10XImMo62hhj2uX7cX
Step Three: After about a dozen prints we can remove the clips as the bed gets adhered with PVA/Aquanet.
Swapping the glass every month or two is just using a paint scraper to pull off the glass and then repeating steps 2 & 3
Should we get a 3"/16" thick plate or a 1"/8" thick plate?
Will these parts work for the 3"/16"- Flashforge Dreamer Glass Bed Upgrade Parts 1\8" or 3mm by -Josh- - Thingiverse
Will these parts work for the 1"/8"- Flashforge Glass Bed Corner Bracket by Makersome - Thingiverse
Please let me know. Thanks.
The 1/8" or 3/16" should work. You will need to make or find a shim and clips for your printer. I use these clips on my bed: 3/16" Glass Bed Clip for Flash Forge by blairmi2 - Thingiverse .
A shim should be as high as your glass plate and attached to the back so it can hit the z endstop.
Do I have to have wing nuts or can I use the nuts that come with the printer?
Your choice. Doesn’t matter as long as it is the correct sized nut. I am assuming it is a metric screw so probably a m3 style is needed.
Can’t I print the corners from your link and use the bolts and nuts that already hold down the print bed?
I went with the thicker glass. Forget exactly how thick but maybe the 1/4". I use a shim similar to that one.
You may want to just start out by taping the glass to the bed. I used blue painters tape for a while because I got frustrated with "corners’ that didn’t work well. Main thing is simply for the glass to not move during printing. Some people use those bulldog clips but just make sure to position them so the nozzles won’t hit them!
You should be able to use the extra nuts but is there one for each corner? The link I provided slips over the bed screw from underneath but needs some sort of nut to hold it in place.
SOC3D
June 26, 2017, 6:59pm
22
We use 3mm boro glass from ebay and just scale the shims z height to match. Again this is the least effort or fast method not necessarily the cheapest or best for everyone.
Is using bull dog clips to hold the glass on a good way? I think it’s the easiest, fastest, and easiest way to remove if needed. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks.
