How to print this ABS part

[Jekyll]

Hi everybody,

I got to print the ABS part (see attached picture). What is the best position? what are the best parameters? I’m using an UM2 printer.

I just tried about 10 times and the part is always bending. I also tried with hairspray on the bed, with glue and tape.

Thanks for your help!

[MB3D]

Hi there! Does your printer have a heated bed and a heated print chamber? Both are necessary to print such tall objects in ABS. I assume you have just a heated bed, then it would recommend to slice the print into panels of 10-15mm thickness and glue those together with acetone. If you print taller parts the warping will cause the part to break, otherwise you could turn the part, so that it has the least hight when printed, don’t forget to use a brim for stability. If you have to print this in one part I would recommend to use a different material, Colorfabb XT has similar properties and doesn’t warp. If you want to sand the part you have to have thicker walls, like 1,5-2mm but for less durability 0,8mm wall thickness is ok too, top and bottom solid layers should be 1mm thick, maybe more when your printer has problems with bridging the infill pattern. I’d go for an infill of 15-50% depending on the required stability. -Marius

[Tombath10]

Hiya! I also have an Ultimaker 2 - what temperature are you heating the print bed to before printing? Also… What part of the print is it thats lifting?

[KorneelB]

should not really be a problem. make sure you heat the bed to at least 100 degrees. also use the green “Pritt Tesa Stick” that should improve bed adhesion. print slow, 30 mm/sec or something…

[danilius]

Presumably you have your bed set to 110 C; try using acetone/ABS slurry (ABS dissolved in acetone). If you don’t have a heated bed use painters tape and slurry.

Print hollow, 15% - 20% depending on what kind of a beating this component will have to take.

Use a raft. Or, a 20-line brim.

Print 0.1mm layers, at the lowest possible temp, and print slowly (so you can reduce the temp further yet; if you were printing at say 50mm/s go down to 30mm/s and you can knock off some more temperature).

[3dMDD]

You have to make sure the UM2 is completely sealed so no hot air can escape, because it’s difficault for it to keep the heat
Also print a brim or raft with it and then hope it works, sometimes it will and sometimes it will not.

[Boutique_3D]

Enclose the print chamber with a cardboard box can will prevent warpong too. (Cheap & fast)

[Suminvent]

Comment deleted

[Victor69]

Hi,

Layar height 0,1, print speed 40-50 (or slower) with platform Brim. Heated bed on 110 degrees, printing temp 250-259 degrees and cooling Fan off.

[Roberto]

Beside previousely mentioned (I print ABS just on heated bed 100-110C), close printer front with paper or make more permanent plexy or wood plate to close front of the printer. For me this was most important.

[HanCon]

For a recommendation pls. firstly share your settings from Cura and additional information. You can either link to the Cura .ini file here or list the settings.

• Temp. material (should be around 225-240)
• Temp heated bed (should be about 100 C)
• Printing Speed
• Fan on/off (I suggest off)
• Name and manufacturer of the used ABS
• Where is the part bending? Pls. share a few images of the printed part

[Jory]

Try adding “mouse ears” to the edges of the print. This should help. The size of the “ears” depends on how big your part is.

[3DDruckundDesig]

My best experience with similar parts was:

• set heat bed to 104 Celsius
• use no glue but acetone/ABS slurry
• enclose the printer that the chamber keeps the temperature
• Fan off.
• print slow
• set the material flow to 100%
• layer 0,1
• Nozzle temp 240
• use high quality ABS

[ShaunD]

Is there any reason why you’re printing the parts standing up? The holes are likely to be problematic as they’ll be full of support material.

The first thing I’d do is to lay the parts flat so you have less height to warp and use a brim as has been suggested before

[Creastudiostore]

Hi Jekyll,

I have an UM2 too.

1) Try to callibrate the bed so the first layer comes out almost transparent. Set on Cura the first layer as 0.1 mm.

2) Use the stick glue on the bed

3) Set the Bed Temp to 100°C

4) Set the Noozle Temp. as descried by the filament producer.

5) Set a slow printing speed <55 mm/s

6) Cover the printer with a Plastic so you can mantain the temp. inside.

Cheers

[markrehab]

Ah!!!. I also had that problem with big parts. Don´t get crazy. The solution: print it in PLA (It won´t bend. Don´t lose your time printing big parts in ABS).

[paul9]

Hello

I think you can solve the problem simply by using this special ABS made by this company. This is a new solution fits precisely to avoid this kind of problems.
I used this strand ABS Special is the results are amazing.
This is the link to the company that produces this FiloAlfa special filament.

http://www.filoalfa3d.com/it/abs-175/95-abspecial-o175mm-azzurro.html

[jangermann]

Capton tape, totally cleaned from grease. 115 deg on the bed and cover the top of the printer where possible with a sheet of paper. just use normal ABS. It is the heat (cold) there is your problem. I have printed very large ABS print this way on my UM2. Good luck.

[rspehr]

Have you tried mixing Acetone (Nail Polish Remover) with scraps of ABS to make a glue slush. You must do it in a well ventilated area. You then use a business card to slush it onto the glass. This makes a base that will not let your part come off. I use it with every ABS print. It works better than any other thing I have tried. Enjoy…and be careful to mix in a well ventilated area. I can send you a bottle of the mix if you want. Postage and the mix for about $10.00. Let me know how it goes. rspehr@gmail.com

[gabriela3d]

Hey @Suminvent, what is this about? Did your comment got deleted or…? Thanks