21

@gabriela3d: no, i did not saw the comments beneath and just asked the same questions :slight_smile:

22

Apply a thin layer of ABS Glue (ABS + Acetone) on the glass, it works like miracles. :smiley:

Fans Off and closing up the openings help too…

23

This position looks to be the best. Try to print it very slowly without forgeting the hard glue spray!
Could you please share the stl file?

24

Hi everybody,

Thanks for your very interesting responses!

I’m using an Ultimaker 2, so 3 sides are closed. Open on the top and on one side. I tried with heated bed up to 110°C. The part is still curving on the bottom and the wall aren’t straight, specially on the bottom. That means it’s too hot on the bottom right? Do you think another position will give better results (higher contact surface with the heated bed)?

Two pictures are attached.

Sorry, not sure I can share the part because I’m printing it for a customer.

2015-04-15 15.42.50.jpg
2015-04-15 15.42.50.jpg3264×2448 2.12 MB
2015-04-15 15.43.29.jpg
2015-04-15 15.43.29.jpg3264×2448 1.32 MB

25

You should use brim and rafts. The 110 deg on the bed is just perfect. Use rafts to lift the model from the heat to avoid the “elephant foot”.

1 Like
26

Why do you use blue tape on the glass bed? This is not required if you have a heated bed. Have your tried without?

27

I am very curious to see if you find a solution that works! Let us know if you find one!

28

Hi Jekyll,

see my response from 2 days ago.

for the housing you can use some plastic foil.

I have had the same problem like you are facing right now.

following the steps I told already I had only very satisfied customers.

happy printing.

Alfred

29

I insist: have you tried to print this part in PLA…? Why not…?

30

Hi, easy answer… the customer asks for ABS.

31

I also use an U2. Never got ABS to print properly…If it warps at the bottom, try a sheet of buildtak on the plate. I haven’t used it with ABS, but on the Makerbot with PLA its fantastic. Much much much better than blue tape or hairspray!

32

I just did it! the part looks quite good. I used following parameters:

- Bed temp: 101°C (front closed with paper)

- Nozzle temp: 250°C

- Speed: 50mm/s

- Fan: OFF

- Bed well cleaned without any tape

Thanks for your help!

33

You have to close the front of the printer. 20% fan speed. 110deg in the bed and it prints abs perfect.

1 Like
34

Hi,

A second part which look quite the same does always loose from the bed, and always at about 90% of printing :frowning:

Each test takes 9 hours, it’s quite difficult to understand what happens. The walls are straight by 100°C. I tried with 110°C and the wall are not straight on the bottom.

Any ideas how to do this?

35

You HAVE to use kapton tape You HAVE to degrease the kapton tape You HAVE to make a front cover on your um2. You HAVE to heat the bed to 110-115 deg. You HAVE to use rafts to lift the model from the heat to prevent elephant foot print. I have made 100hours abs print this way, and always have success.

36

Hi Jekyll,

did you use glue or did you use acetone/ABS slurry?

With acetone/ABS slurry this would not happen.

I use this on a regular base.

Ciao

Alfred

37

Hi Jekyll

Which software do you use for printing: 3dslic3r, cura, simplify3d…?

In tis part (that you finally printed ok in ABS), which fill did you use, and which number of layers in the perimeter, and in the bottom…?

Thanks!

38

I was having terrible problems with my ABS prints. I read everywhere that fan should always be off. I tried your suggestion and it made a huge difference! Thanks.