On my laptop so can give a more comprehensive answer
Starting with a good solid frame is essential, if the frame flexes then you will just get crappy and inconsistent prints, the P3 Steel is a great solid frame, be advised that the steel kit will lack a lot of plastic parts for making the X axis, so if you don’t have access to a printer buy a plastics kit as well… make sure its suitable for the E3D hot end
The controller may be a matter of taste, but the wifi is by far not the top feature of the Duet, if you like to hear stepper motors wining away all day then other controllers are fine, but the Duet is silent, and being able to control your printer directly via the web interface without any need for a direct and permanent connection of a computer scores well too, Im sure there are other controllers that can match these features but this is the one I know that works and works well.
Don’t make the mistake of thinking your HE3D extruder and hot end are OK, they are by far not OK, the hot end and extruder are the heart of your machine, if they don’t work perfectly and reliably the whole machine is a waste of time, and don’t be tempted by copies, get a genuine E3D and you will never look back
links to supplies, you may need to look for local options
At the end of doing this you will look at the box of junk and regret going HE3D, but you will have a good printer and will have learnt a lot… I didn’t have high hopes for the Delta I bought and always intended to upgrade it myself, I just underestimated how bad it was, but
Wow. I’ll look into it. I’ll definitely upgrade the hotend to a E3d. How much do you think the renovation will take if I just use a regular controller board ($)? I don’t need the silent motor option, and I have a raspberry pi with octoprint for the wifi.
I’ve had good luck with a MKS 1.4 board and and E3D clone hotend on my all metal HE3D Delta 600. The only drawback to the clone hotend is you need to drill and chamfer the push connect fittings.
With a good controller they will be fine But if you want to be sure post a pic of the label on the motor if there is one But they look bigger than the motors on my prusa really its not much more load as it’s a pretty low friction setup you might have to adjust your x jerk setting but I can help with that
Interesting. Thanks. I am currently out of town for the holidays. Is there anything specific I should look for on the motor? Also, is there a need for that heat bed electricity rerouter if I go with the board that was suggested below? Is there a specific heated bed that I should invest in?
Hey Broncosis. Thanks for the files. I have a question about the x carriage. How would I make it a bowden e3d v6? Would that be possible, and if not do you know of any carriage designs for that specifically? I want it to be bowden, because the direct drive will limit my 3d printing space dramatically. At worst, I would just use the direct drive but I still need it for an e3d (how would I do that?). Thanks again for all your help.
That would be great! I’ve been looking as well, but lots of them have the belt tensioner in the middle. Mine would have to be on the back of the carriage.
