Yeah. I don’t think I have the budget. I’ll just get mine up.and running with new extruders and a board. Then work up from there.
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I think you misunderstand how crap he3d products are…sure a tightened frame may help, but if your going to rebuild a printer then do it right and do it once… sticking with a poor frame that needs retightening and resquaring once a week isnt really worth the time…as for sales…meh, i just reccomend parts that i have personally used and know do a great job, i dont make a cent from reccomending anything and Im sure there are others that can do the job, but im not in a place to reccomend them.
There are a few other great printable upgrades like wobble isolators bearing holders for the bottom of z rods one piece motor mount and top frame parts I will this evening compile a list of thingiverse links for you that I would recommend
Ok fair enough all prusa printers suffer from loosening up that’s were a little penetrating thread locker and a few extra nuts are for I am sure that any prusa I1/I2 style would be crap to you it is a 6 year old design how ever your printer the i3 was the evolution of this design and has a few flaws too I am sure as most machines do Glad you enjoy it
Hey Broncosis. Thanks for the files. I have a question about the x carriage. How would I make it a bowden e3d v6? Would that be possible, and if not do you know of any carriage designs for that specifically? I want it to be bowden, because the direct drive will limit my 3d printing space dramatically. At worst, I would just use the direct drive but I still need it for an e3d (how would I do that?). Thanks again for all your help.
I am sures there is a prusa mount out there on one of the sites I will find it for you in a bit when I get to my computer
That would be great! I’ve been looking as well, but lots of them have the belt tensioner in the middle. Mine would have to be on the back of the carriage.
this would be my first choice
it looks nice a simple and would work with a e3d or any of the knock off’s
but if that fails
with out the fittings just run the tubing straight into the e3d
should work I know it prints I used it to attempt a 3mm bowden setup long ago
Thank You!