99 cent store picture frame for me. 4x6, in side by side portrait orientation results in a glass sheet just about 9 inches long.
I’ve had best luck with glue stick, which for me sticks stronger than hairspray so you lose fewer large prints. I also use a car windshield cleaner that targets bug splatter to clean the glue afterwards; it cleans gluestick better than hairspray.
You can certainly use glass, I prefer using 6 inch wide tape to avoid lines and avoid glue / hairspray. I suppose its all personal preference. I don’t like the “clips” people use to attach a sheet of glass to the build plate though, I’ve got a purpose built solution on the way, let me know if you’re interested.
1 Like
3Dmigos
January 28, 2015, 4:23pm
17
Fantastic range of comments thanks.
In summary - “Just get some glass”.
Thanks guys.
Cris.
1 Like
I have Dreamers, not Creators, but I DO use the borosilicate glass.
“Just some glass” will work, but I like the borosilicate because I don’t have to worry about it when I heat up the bed and run ABS.
It works great, and has increased the quality of my prints a lot.
+1 for 6inch tape. Well worth the investment.
1 Like
Feel free to use code EAF9B700D3B4E18 on my site for 10% off at checkout. I’ve got some great 6 inch tape, both standard and high temp / performance tape.
Yeah the hairspray thing… apparently it needs to be a very specific brand of hairspray which isn’t available here in South Africa. I have tried the ones that are available and none of them work. Plus the hairspray option is expensive. I can get 5 litres of acetone for about R100 (approx $9) and that last about a year. I make about 100ml slurry at a time in a jar. This takes a few minutes, then I apply it to the glass with a brush before the print starts. Not exactly work… YMMV.
eckerj
January 28, 2015, 7:17pm
22
I have 3mm mirror glass with hairspray and it works well. I don’t use clips, but little corner pieces that attach to the heatbed posts underneath. I modified them so that they come out level with the print surface of the mirror.
As far as printing with PLA, I imagine if you heat it even just a little bit (50 deg C), then put the mirror/glass in the refridgerator/freezer, the parts will pop off fairly easily.
If that doesn’t work, a razor blade should be able to get the part off with little to no damage to the part.
Brad24L
January 28, 2015, 7:28pm
23
I’ve was using a regular plate glass from Lowes. It’s only 1/8 thick. It worked great but I wanted something a little thicker. Currently I’m testing a 1/4" thick mirror that I had in the garage. I cut a 8x10 panel because I wanted more clearance between the clamps and the extruders. Printed 4 abs corner mounts that I found on Thingiverse. It’s been working pretty well. I cut extra panels so I can prepare the plates on my workbench then swap them out as I need them. Hairspray and glue sticks have worked best for me. One thing to remember before adding glass to your heat bed is to print a spacer for the z axis limit switch. It is needed to adjust for the glass thickness. If you mount your glass without it your extruders will crash into the the glass plate. Look on Thingiverse you will see what I’m talking about.
Hey Cris,
Where are ya, mate?
My glass experience, for what it’s worth:
Tried simple float glass ( windows, photo frame etc ). All worked well for a while then I had one particularly well-adhered print and I actually ripped shards out of the surface of the glass when I popped it off. Bit worrying but good 'n cheap.
Found a supplier of borosilicate - They use it for solid fuel stove windows - Chiswell fireplaces, St. Albans. Expensive - £15 each for 130mm x 140mm. Works really well, especially with Pritt / UHU Purple stuff but I did come into the workshop one day and the plate had split in half! A case of too much adherence, me thinks. Didn’t stop me. Now use B’silicate almost exclusively but right now, the plates have BuildTak on them - Maaan! That stuff is awesome! maybe you should give that a go. No lines!
1 Like
Hi, I am interested in this package. Can you send me an email with details and where to buy? Joerteimo@gmail.co .
Hello interested in the package u listed here. Please email me wirh link to buy. Joerteimo@gmail.com
Hi Joe,
direct mail does not seem to work. Here’s the link:
http://metaquip.nl/en/product/3d-printer-print-on-glass-kit/
Regards Barry
if you want buildtak we stock it www.technologyoutlet.co.uk
if you want buildtak we stock it www.technologyoutlet.co.uk
I have the newer model of FFCP with the thick aluminum build plate. It should still be exactly the same if you have the one with the thin aluminum plate.
I am using 3/16 standard glass from a local glass shop. Works great haven’t had any warped but I did break a few… it was my fault as I dropped them too hard on the counter (my hands go numb too many back surgeries (15))
I am using some corners from thingiverse that I believe makersome designed, however I made my own change for the thicker glass. If you need the corners let me know and Ill send you my stl files. I printed them out of ABS, glass is non borosilicate, but still works.
I am planning up upgrading the size of the bed to larger glass for larger print volume and will be playing with some polycarbonate and maybe some mirror as well.
Also, yes borosilicate glass is VERY good glass and recommended, however, I just spoke to my glass shop davis glass in las vegas, they use tempered glass, and they even use them on fireplaces where there is flames involved not directly but temps should get up to 100 - 200C. They say it works great. I too have been printing in ABS a lot and other filaments like polycarbonate and bed up as high as 120. No problems there.
I did go to frys and bought a tube of MGChemicals white lithium grease (yeah I know not really on this subject but related) and added to the Z screw and bearings, and also got some silicone heat transfer paste. Both came in a tube like toothpaste and the heat transfer # 860-150G was around 16.50 USD, and the white lithium grease #8461-85ML was 7.99 USD. I noticed the bed heats up a little faster and holds a more stable temp as well. I would like if I could find a way to easily clean the glass and re apply hair spray to put some paste on the glass to the aluminum plate too. I just haven’t had any issues with 1st layer adhesion to have to try it lol.
Anyhow I hope my 2 cents maybe 3 cents is worth something to someone!
I did, and dude: no adhesion problem since then ! I mostly use PLA in my FFCP, and use hairspray (strong hairspray). Works wonders to adhere several prints in a row.
If I need traditional strength (maybe because a big part has only little contact surface with the build plate), then I use gluestick, and the problem is gone.
Just beware that my laser thermometer registers only a glass temperature comprised between 65 and 68 degrees when I ask for a build plate at 70 degrees, sot there’s a small temperature drop.
The most challenging part of the glass mod is to offset the home of the Z axis by putting a bit of plastic inf front of the home Z interrupter and to correctly fasten the glass on the bed so it does not slide during the printing.
For that later problem, here is my personal design, feel free to use: http://a360.co/2yGgQ0o
(The joints are messed up, but I hope the concept is quite clear)
