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Mar 2017

What is the voltage between the 5V and GND pad on the HBP when plugged in?

(Ignore previous comment; mixed up with the photos)

Hi sorry for the delay in replying had to go out.

Just took measurement:

Meter set at 20v dc measured from 5v to ground on HBP this gave a reading of 4.9v I assume that`s about right! I imagine that the fault if there is one could be further down the line.

Dont know what the capacitors role in the circuit is?

Am I just jabbering junk please feel free to say so; just trying to use logic could be completely wrong!

It could be the capacitor is faulty and has some resistance, or it could be a faulty PCB. It’s a bit hard to diagnose via a forum. Your HBP is definitely faulty though, I don’t suspect that the mightyboard is.

The firmware has had nothing to do with it. Sailfish is much better than the stock firmware, don’t waste your time going back.

You are right that the sailfish levelling wizard is different. It’s better though. When it moved the carriage to the bed centre, it disables the X and Y steppers so you can move the carriage freely by hand. You can then move it so that the nozzle is directly over each of the screws, and adjust, in turn. Then you can check the middle. And repeat. It’s good.

This has been a great learning experience for me, all due to your teaching skills.

I had done some research about the sailfish firmware and everyone has the same opinion (It`s better).

I had noticed that moving the head was easier that`s presumably the X and Y stepper motors being disabled as you said.

Thought this might be the case and printed out a dial support for bed levelling a little while ago; much better way of doing levelling. Thanks to Thingyverse.

Seems we have reached an impasse as regards the cause of the mystery and with as you say the difficulties of trying to diagnose via the internet not having the actual components in front of one is a challenge to be sure.

I will as promised post the outcome of fitting the replacement HBP when it arrives. rather than leaving people wondering whether the problem was ever finally resolved.

I have learnt a good deal from yourself and thank you again.

Hope I may assist others in the future when I become more familiar with this hobby.

I hoped to apply 3d printing to my other hobby radio controlled aircraft although getting a bit long in the tooth now eyesight not as great as was, feel a bit of a fool when the plane your flying ends up actually being a SEAGULL!!!

Ha, snap, I fly R/C too.

Hope the new HBP fixes it for you.

Well whats the chances of that! Like minds on the web never thought that would happen in a million years.

Just venturing into quad copters.

I like have ago at all different crafts not that I`m great at any.

Just a thought. A location may have been helpful. If you where near me you could have tryed my spair

Just a follow up on the problem I was having with the HBP not heating up and giving false temperature readings.

As promised I have found the **culprit to my woes** in the form of a capacitor on said HBP after de-soldering and cleaning the pads on which it sat ,I measured the capacitance with a meter and got a reading of 1007uf ( Now Im no electronics wizz and I have only picked up tips from people kind enough to help me ) So don`t take the capacitor value as accurate if possible measure it yourself or get someone in the know to help.

Having said that I re-soldered the offending item back onto the HBP and hey presto it worked! ( well for a good few hours anyway).

Whilst it was working I found it to be very accurate temperature wise. I checked this with a laser temperature gun.

It was very worthwhile changing the thermistor for the 100K NTC.

I think the problem was a dry joint together with a faulty capacitor as it has since died.

I have now received a new replacement HBP from CTC so, it pays to be tenacious, only got one by going back through ebay; CTC won`t reply to you if you try to contact them directly.

This new HBP also needs the thermistor changing as the temperature is way off.

I will repair the old HBP with a replacement capacitor and I`ll then have a spare.

Hope this information is useful to others who may experience this same problem; simple fix when you know what the problem could be.

Glad to here you have got it sorted. Forgot to mention when I upgraded to my home build HBP I also upgraded the power supply. I’m in the middle of building a XL ctc but running on Arduino and ramps 1.4 (still struggling with firmware (not been well back trouble put me in hospital for 2 week)). My work shop is in the loft with ladders as access so it’s been put on hold until I’m well enough. Pic so far.

Hello Sir,

Thanks for your comment. That looks a great machine have you cut the cabinet yourself; acrylic is it?

Just trying some ABS having problems sticking to bed, Im using a glass bed with glue sticks think my problem is the new heat bed not reaching 110C. I have not yet fitted the new thermistor and the original supplied on the board just dosnt do the job.

Still practising. Sorry to hear you are unwell I know what back trouble is like suffer from it myself not long had an epidural ( Don`t recommend as it did me no good at all) Hope you recover soon.