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Feb 2017

At what point do they start to increase? as soon as you power on? or is it when you start a print or preheat an extruder?

Unplug the heated bed, and then power on the printer. Does it behave any differently?

If I try to print the HBP start temp is about 190C then starts climbing if I remove the plug from the bed I get NC at the display ( whilst printer is still on) If I turn off the printer then remove the HBP plug from the bed then power on and start a print the extruder heats normally but, the platform shows alternating NC, NA 255C and sometimes 000C. Hope this helps

Wow!

Love you`re upgrades hope to emulate you, if I ever get things put right!

Will have to see what my problem is main board or HBP before continuing upgrading mine.

Thanks for the info will purchase the new heat bed if my problem turns out to be the platform.

Cheers Tony

The aluminium arms on the side of the plastic support arm are home made too but you can get them of the bay aswell

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381360135076?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT 13

I also added max end stops to all axis. Added extra moffit for the PLA cooling fan. LED lights run on a separate power supply (12v) as are the cooling fans I fitted to the X and Y axis. Extractor fan fitted to\the hood also runs on the 12v supply.

Igus polimar bearings all round aswell.

I did have LED lights around the print heads but they failed due to the heat and aint got round to sorting them.

Will be doing this very soon as I have just had a jam so it due some TLC

Have you try going back to the stock fireware? If you have uploaded the wrong firmware of sailfish this may be your problem!

At this point I am willing to give anything a try, Can you give details of how to go about this STEP BY STEP.

I know this might seem ridiculous but, I even tried blowing with a hairdryer between the HBP and support platform both cold then hot air. Seemed to be a rise in temperature in the display when blowing hot but. not by much and blowing in cold air did nothing either. The problem existed before upgrading firmware so cant see what reverting back will do but, hey ho Id give it a go.

Desperate or what!!! LOL!

Thank you for your suggestion would need instruction to carry out this operation as I have said I know nothing about these matters really and its all an experience right now.

After firmware upgrade Version Information display shows:-

SAILFISH REPLICATOR1 (cannot see if any other characters are on this line or is it complete?)

Free SRAM 800 ( This line seems to flicker )

Thing 32084 r1220M

Firmware Version 7.6

This could well be my problem! Willing to accept a blunder on my part; the above information would mean more to the kind people trying to help than me. Lets hope this solves the problem.

Cheers for all you`re comments and advice.

If I have somehow selected the wrong firmware I`m sure someone will assist.

Sorry cannot help with uploading the firmware as I had someone else do mine for me

No problem was not even sure you can go back to original firmware. Maybe someone else could help.

Thanks for your input anyway good to see people having an interest.

Can you measure the voltage at TP27 when the HBP is at room temperature? that’s a tiny copper spot just next to R65, which is next to where the HBP plugs in to mightboard. Put the other end of your meter on one of the ground pads on the ATMEGA 1280 IO just below that.

Hi Jon,

Thank you for youre instructions here are the results. Now to make sure im telling you the right information Ive included photos as Im not an electronic`s wiz as you know by now!!!

I have access to a meter but, only use it for continuity testing so that said details are as follows:

Room temp:- 77.5F

Meter set at 20v DC. Reading taken at points TP27 as you`re photo to ground on ATMEGA 1280 this gives a reading of: 0.47-0.49v.

Also took picture of board showing three small red LEDs light dont know if this is relevant but, to much information may be better than none. Hope this helps.

and the screen said that was around 200 degrees i expect? That suggests your mightyboard is fine, and the problem is elsewhere.

can you take a photo of the component side of your HBP? you’ll need to take it off for that.

Some great enhancements, already planned to upgrade parts as viewed on you tube.

I have only printed out parts from thingyverse using Pla on a cold platform due to iissues with the HBP but, this seemed to work didnt know I had a fault till trying some ABS when I discovered cold and ABS dont mix. Printed load of bits but found I needed to print on a raft ( until recently thought that was something that floated on water! but, thanks to people like yourself I hope I`m starting to learn a thing or two. Just need to get things up and running properly before sending for more bits such as the extruder feed device which I ordered.

Thanks

Hello again,

Here are the pictures as requested gather you meant the side showing the solder tracks hence taking it of the mounts?

If Ive given wrong pictures then Ill retake later.

Thank you your efforts are appreciated!!

Just realised the pictures you wanted are of the HBP (Fool I should learn to read properly!!)

Here are the correct images I hope.

472_resistor_and_capacitor_ctc_hbp.jpg 472_restistor_and_capacitor_above_shot_ctc_hbp.jpg win_20170225_204534.jpg led_and_102_resistor_ctc_hbp.jpg