Hello Jon,
No to my recollection I never felt any heat from the bed at all except when following the instructions for the upgrade firmware when the bed did indeed heat up.
I must admit that I had noticed high readings on the display for the HBP when printing PLA but, being a complete novice to 3D printing I did not give this a second thought until my reel of ABS turned up. That was when my problem reared its ugly head. This was before upgrading the firmware, I only upgraded because I thought the upgrade to sailfish 7.6 would cure the problem. I did not !
At this point in time I have emailled CTC direct (NO REPLY) A guy from the listing on ebay where I purchased it from (amiejill@ctc.com) again NO REPLY Ive emailed a chap on ebay offering help (tilly69) again no reply although in fairness to the latter why should he. Lastly Ive contacted the seller through Ebay and had the reply Check the wiring all of which I have already done! Relayed this back to them still waiting for answer, not very hopeful at this stage.
CTC seem to have terrible customer support if any at all.
I am still unable to get the printer to give correct temperature readings for the HBP.
Since the sailfish upgrade the temperature starts about the 190s then climbs until it reaches 200s - 230`s then I get a warning stating Platform Failure Temperature Limit Reached Shutdown or Restart.
This happens even though the HBP temperature is stone cold or I should say room temp ( Checked with a laser temperature gun, no increase in bed temp at all).
Where are the increase in readings coming from?
Still mystified!!!
At what point do they start to increase? as soon as you power on? or is it when you start a print or preheat an extruder?
Unplug the heated bed, and then power on the printer. Does it behave any differently?
If I try to print the HBP start temp is about 190C then starts climbing if I remove the plug from the bed I get NC at the display ( whilst printer is still on) If I turn off the printer then remove the HBP plug from the bed then power on and start a print the extruder heats normally but, the platform shows alternating NC, NA 255C and sometimes 000C. Hope this helps
Wow!
Love you`re upgrades hope to emulate you, if I ever get things put right!
Will have to see what my problem is main board or HBP before continuing upgrading mine.
Thanks for the info will purchase the new heat bed if my problem turns out to be the platform.
Cheers Tony
Suggy
10
The aluminium arms on the side of the plastic support arm are home made too but you can get them of the bay aswell
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381360135076?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I also added max end stops to all axis. Added extra moffit for the PLA cooling fan. LED lights run on a separate power supply (12v) as are the cooling fans I fitted to the X and Y axis. Extractor fan fitted to\the hood also runs on the 12v supply.
Igus polimar bearings all round aswell.
I did have LED lights around the print heads but they failed due to the heat and aint got round to sorting them.
Will be doing this very soon as I have just had a jam so it due some TLC
Suggy
11
Have you try going back to the stock fireware? If you have uploaded the wrong firmware of sailfish this may be your problem!
Suggy
12
At this point I am willing to give anything a try, Can you give details of how to go about this STEP BY STEP.
I know this might seem ridiculous but, I even tried blowing with a hairdryer between the HBP and support platform both cold then hot air. Seemed to be a rise in temperature in the display when blowing hot but. not by much and blowing in cold air did nothing either. The problem existed before upgrading firmware so cant see what reverting back will do but, hey ho Id give it a go.
Desperate or what!!! LOL!
Thank you for your suggestion would need instruction to carry out this operation as I have said I know nothing about these matters really and its all an experience right now.
After firmware upgrade Version Information display shows:-
SAILFISH REPLICATOR1 (cannot see if any other characters are on this line or is it complete?)
Free SRAM 800 ( This line seems to flicker )
Thing 32084 r1220M
Firmware Version 7.6
This could well be my problem! Willing to accept a blunder on my part; the above information would mean more to the kind people trying to help than me. Lets hope this solves the problem.
Cheers for all you`re comments and advice.
If I have somehow selected the wrong firmware I`m sure someone will assist.
Suggy
14
Sorry cannot help with uploading the firmware as I had someone else do mine for me
No problem was not even sure you can go back to original firmware. Maybe someone else could help.
Thanks for your input anyway good to see people having an interest.
Can you measure the voltage at TP27 when the HBP is at room temperature? that’s a tiny copper spot just next to R65, which is next to where the HBP plugs in to mightboard. Put the other end of your meter on one of the ground pads on the ATMEGA 1280 IO just below that.
Hi Jon,
Thank you for youre instructions here are the results. Now to make sure im telling you the right information Ive included photos as Im not an electronic`s wiz as you know by now!!!
I have access to a meter but, only use it for continuity testing so that said details are as follows:
Room temp:- 77.5F
Meter set at 20v DC. Reading taken at points TP27 as you`re photo to ground on ATMEGA 1280 this gives a reading of: 0.47-0.49v.
Also took picture of board showing three small red LEDs light dont know if this is relevant but, to much information may be better than none. Hope this helps.
and the screen said that was around 200 degrees i expect? That suggests your mightyboard is fine, and the problem is elsewhere.
can you take a photo of the component side of your HBP? you’ll need to take it off for that.
Some great enhancements, already planned to upgrade parts as viewed on you tube.
I have only printed out parts from thingyverse using Pla on a cold platform due to iissues with the HBP but, this seemed to work didnt know I had a fault till trying some ABS when I discovered cold and ABS dont mix. Printed load of bits but found I needed to print on a raft ( until recently thought that was something that floated on water! but, thanks to people like yourself I hope I`m starting to learn a thing or two. Just need to get things up and running properly before sending for more bits such as the extruder feed device which I ordered.
Thanks
Hello again,
Here are the pictures as requested gather you meant the side showing the solder tracks hence taking it of the mounts?
If Ive given wrong pictures then Ill retake later.
Thank you your efforts are appreciated!!
Just realised the pictures you wanted are of the HBP (Fool I should learn to read properly!!)
Here are the correct images I hope.
What’s that “Bed temp” thing on the case?
Suggy
22
Don’t know if this is aimed at my machine but I guess it is
It’s so I can alter the bed temp on the fly.
ie I some time have a separate temp meter taped to the bed and if I get different readings from the display screen I can alter the temp without restarting the print. Control panel only lets you alter the temp on the hot end and not the bed.
Hope this make sence?
Hi Jon,
Sorry but you`re comments just gone straight over my head!!
Can you clarify? Further progress with CTC seems, they have agreed to send out a new HBP shows dogged persistence may pay off. Dont know if a new HBT will cure the problem but, I would still like to discover the culprit behind this fault whether that be something I am doing wrong or indeed a manufacturing problem in the hope that this could help anyone else who suffers the same in the future. That is if youre still agreeable? Don`t know when they would send out the new part or even at this point if I will actually receive it, only just received the email seconds ago.
Could the problem be within the capacitor on the HBP ? I am lead to believe that if that is faulty it could give erroneous reading from the thermistor.
If all else fails and even a new HBP wont fix the problem, I may if it is possible have to use a separate heat bed system completely independent of the motherboard. I would imagine this is possible as I have seen this:- MakerBot Replicator 2x Build Plate Heater KEENOVO Silicone Heating Pad 130W 24V | eBay? MakerBot Replicator 2x Build Plate Heater KEENOVO Silicone Heating Pad 130W 24V.
Only seems to have four wires though and I`m not sure as to how it would be wired I assume I would need a method of controlling the temperature and a way of monitoring via some sort of separate display. Now am I getting carried away with myself and just talking rubbish!
I think if I am right that the bed temp thing you may be talking about is just a normal home thermometer it was pictured just to show the ambient room temperature nothing else. It is not part of the original CTC printer or any addition.
What is the voltage between the 5V and GND pad on the HBP when plugged in?
(Ignore previous comment; mixed up with the photos)
Hi sorry for the delay in replying had to go out.
Just took measurement:
Meter set at 20v dc measured from 5v to ground on HBP this gave a reading of 4.9v I assume that`s about right! I imagine that the fault if there is one could be further down the line.
Dont know what the capacitors role in the circuit is?
Am I just jabbering junk please feel free to say so; just trying to use logic could be completely wrong!
