2

Why not just run the update on the printer?

3

the button on the back of the printer is not doing anything so will not update

4

It’s all about timing, pushing reset button and clicking on go at the same time or was it 1 just before the other, can’t remember, having a senior moment

5

The timing has to be just right or it wont work took me ages to do mine.

6

Got it! I have heard these are a pain sometimes.

7

Chip on an arduino is a atmega 2560 chip on ctc is a atmega 1280 dont know if it would work.

Dont think you can get sailfish to upload to the arduino 2560?

If im wrong can someone correct me and tell me how to do it?

8

Some of the flashforges are 2560 chip boards and they can run sailfish.

9

they use there own board and not an arduino 2560 + ramps. I dont think he would have been able to upload sailfish to arduino 2560 to remove the chip

10

found this video - YouTube

11

It would be possible. Atmega 2560 is pin compatible with 1280 and there is a sailfish build target for atmega 2560 already.

I still think its a very silly idea though. Rework of SMD like this isn’t easy. Flashing firmware via USB IS easy though.

12

As i’ve said below, trying to solder a pre-flashed chip isn’t a good idea. Unless you’re quite experienced with SMD rework, you WILL kill your board.

Flashing can be fiddly and it’s very dependent on timing which is quite likely what your issue is. There were, a few years ago, some boards which came without the arduino bootloader and those are not serial flashable from replicatorG. That’s unlikely though so first, check some things:

1. Verify your USB connection really is working - can you connect to the printer from makerbot desktop, replicatorg or whatever host software you’re using? If not, you may have some driver issues that you need to resolve.

2. Verify that your reset button works. Bear in mind it’s recessed quite a lot and you’ll need something that can push it firmly. Pressing the result button successfully (don’t try and flash right now) will reboot the printer, and you’ll see on the LCD that that is happening, so you can verify and satisfy yourself that the reset button works.

If (1) and (2) are good, then you really ought to be able to flash. For me, what worked was to press the button on the PC to start the flash, and then IMMEDIATELY (i.e. within less than a second) press the reset button on the printer.

There isn’t really any feedback to let you know it’s working, apart from the LEDs on the board near the USB port will flicker a lot more than normal. Flash takes probably a minute or so, from memory.

If you really really can’t do it, or if your board really doens’t have the arduino bootloader, there is, of course, another way - that doesn’t involve soldering.

There are two ICSP ports on the mightyboard. One is for programming the 8U2 micro that handles usb comminications (ignore this one) and the other is marked 1280 ISP - that’s for the main microcontroller.

If you get yourself an AVR programmer (e.g. tinyisp, see ebay) then you can plug it in to the ICSP port and then use arduino ide (or avrdude) to flash the arduino bootloader, or you could skip the arduino bootloader and just flash sailfish itself.

Getting an ISP programmer is 1,000 times better an idea than trying to resolder the chip.

13

Could you tell me how to upload sailfish to the Arduino mega 2560 running a ramps 1.4 I have build a second printer based on the extra large ctc. See pics

20161213_211943_1.jpg
20161213_211943.jpg5312×2988 3.43 MB
20161213_211948.jpg
20161213_211948.jpg5312×2988 3.39 MB
20161213_212000.jpg
20161213_212000.jpg5312×2988 3.09 MB
20161213_212007.jpg
20161213_212007.jpg5312×2988 3.22 MB

14

Sailfish is for mightyboards, not RAMPS. I think there has been some work in the past to get sailfish running with thermistors etc, tbh it’s a bit of a dead end and sailfish will never run that LCD (which looks like a reprapdiscount graphic controller)

Try marlin instead. There are a lot of guides out there on how to get marlin going. You’re going to have to get nitty gritty with build dimensions, steps per unit, endstops and stuff like that. But it will be better in the long run.

If you really need it, i can help you a bit (i run marlin on a ramps compatible board on my ctc now)

15

It 99 perent setup with marlin. All cogs are GT2 20 teeth. The z axis is a proper 8mm lead screw and not a 8mm threaded bar. Extruder is direct feed with 26 teeth (mk8 I think) on it. Line 752 #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,3000,2507.8982} don’t know if it’s right? Ian

16

Any help you can offer would be much appreciated.

I also want the extruder fan to come on when the extruder gets to a set temp, fan is wired to the 2nd extruder and only come’s on ver sliccer or menu/on board controller

17

so I’ve been doing some research to get the reset button on the back working I have a picture of where the caps go I think will there be

anybody to tell me if I’m right and if the value is right

ctc_mightyboard.jpg
ctc_mightyboard.jpg982×793 234 KB

18

There’s no C20 on my board but there is a C15 and mine as been flashed

Are you using a laptop or a desk top? from what iv heard laptop can be problomatic

20151227_185021.jpg
20151227_185021.jpg5312×2988 3.87 MB

19

i can see c20 on your pic

20

Zoomed in. the solder pads are there but no chip

20151227_184955-1.jpg
20151227_184955-1.jpg846×766 458 KB

21

no but there is a Trace that gose to a chip leg if you look the thing is i was looking for I was looking for tutorials on updating me printer and i found someome on redit saying the reset button time is bad and 6 hours is two long and someone sed put a cap on c20 and the timimg has no issues press 1 time to flash trying fine out if anyone has done it