The nozzles are known as a wear item. The belts are also wear items. They eventually (wear) out.
Change to some p3-D nozzles. High-Lubricity.
Also, some teflon tape on that hex key would work if its a problem for you. Over-tightening is the most common problem for this issue.
That’s pretty good, PLA or ABS? When I first got mine, all it would do is click all day and air print, and the printed part would get too hot and melt or collapse due to the ambient heat coming from the hotends. The cooling fan helped with this, and silicon insulating sleeves around the hotend made it even better. For ABS, I thought you do not want to have the active cooling fan on, as it can and most likely will mess up the print. Rapid cooling is what causes warping, so you don’t want it to cool instantly the way you would want PLA to cool. Cooling fans are mostly for PLA.
Cooling fans are wanted and needed for fine resolution prints after the first few layers.
That high-lubricity is just a marketing gimmick, there is nothing special about those nozzles. My nozzles are good and I have no problems with anything since switching to ptfe-free. The issue I was talking about is not about the actual nozzles themselves, it’s about the thermal barrier tubes and cooling bar not being threaded. If they are all metal they have to be threaded to dissipate the heat. I can’t use those p3-D nozzles anyway I can only use original makerbot nozzles that have a smaller opening. Nozzles for regular printers have a larger hole to accommodate the ptfe tube. I also don’t have hex screws holding my nozzles, they are threaded in. I have an alu-dual cooling bar, and I had to switch to a replicator 2x carriage for that.
My experience with chrome plating and metallurgy, as well as 1000’s of happy customers would say otherwise.
If this is your style nozzle assembly, the height is adjusted from the aluminum block. There is a “set” screw in there.
It is very easy to push to hard and cause a bend on the PTFE tube.
Also, if you cut your filament with a knife or cutter, changing often, it also causes the PTFE in the cooling tower to build, jam, and have lots of friction.
Actually it’s not hard at all to bend the ptfe tube, it’s a well known thing, it’s very easy, and that is what happened to one of my nozzles. When I took it out it was curved and smashed on the end. Even if it doesn’t bend noticeably, it’s not going to be flush with the walls of the tube. And it’s not pushing too hard that’s the issue, it’s getting the length of the tube perfect, as screwing it in will bend it. Actually, by law it has to bend a little bit because it makes a seal. Even if it was perfect, and the hardest most un-bendable material in the world, the fact of the matter still stands that there is not sufficient surface area to dissipate the heat inside the tube and keep the plastic cool enough. The fact that it bends and causes even worse jams is just the icing on the cake. The aluminum cooling bar is called a cooling bar for a reason, it is supposed to absorb some of the heat inside the tube.
That’s not the style I have, which is what I was saying. This is what my nozzle assembly looks like. There is no set screw, the tube itself simply screws in and held tight with bolts. I have regular square hotends though, not T-shaped. This is my exact cooling bar but a different color. The holes inside the cooling bar are threaded also, and the tube screws in. What makes those nozzles low friction?
If they truly are low friction, they might help a bit I guess, but the nozzles themselves are a none issue and won’t solve any of those issues I pointed out if you are having them. If you don’t have issues maybe, maybe those nozzles would make the smallest difference. There are bigger factors at work here, which I pointed out.
Fair enough.
You have said it right.
All printers are systems, and a system must have all its pieces working accordingly.
With some good ABS material, we find printing about 220C with a bed about 100-110c.
With our steel feed gears we don’t have very many issues like the previous gens.
well I don’t have a pic with me at work but I can show you a print without the fan and one with and the difference was amazing. The active cooling fan I linked to only cooles the filament that leaves the hot end. It doesn’t cool the part on the bed. That would probably cause lots of peeling. The heart was printed with PLA.
That’s awesome to know! Some people told me to absolutely not cool ABS prints, which I figured was a bit paranoid as long as the first few layers were done. I have the V1 cooling duct printed out and will probably be installing it today, looking forward to the upgrade! Glad to hear its worth it!
Very good!
You can tap the fan into the extruder fan plugs. That way the fan gets 24v and spins real fast, same time as the extruder.
There are other options like adding a switch etc., and then you can turn on/off or inc/dec fan speed at your will.
Have to say, if you cut into your case, or drill holes, etc… you’ve voided the warranty. As long as you keep it the way it looks externally, you should be covered.
Remember that the printer uses 24v so maybe get a 10x40 PC fan and use a 12v adaptor. I used resistors to step down the 24v to 12 and used a amazingly quiet fan, Noctua 40x10mm. I replaced the fan cooling the stepper drives underneath as well. That fan dropped the printer from 70db to is it on?? You could also use a bec to step down to 12v. eBay Like this
If you find that you are printing air then you might have inconsistent filament diameter That can be an issue with the stock extruder. There is no tensioner for the stock extruder. it’s just a roller bearing and the stepper motor. The best thing for that is a new spring loaded extruder. This way the filament has constant pressure pushing it up against the drive gear. So when the filament gets smaller it won’t slip on the gear. I’m using this Mk8 Spring loaded Drive Block Replicator 1 / Duplicator 4 / FlashForge / CTC by thruit00 - Thingiverse. It solved my air print issues with some inexpensive white ABS.
sorry, replied to wrong person 
Chris, I was actually thinking of directly connecting it onto one of the unpopulated terminals of the power supply and installing another switch on the faceplate. Might also add a linear potentiometer for speed control. That way I have simple control. I already did this with the LED lighting I installed (two 12v strips connected in series so that 24V could power them without any modification). Or Ive also considered attaching it to the unpopulated “extra” accessory slot on the board, but not sure if that would give the control I’m looking for.
Yeah I just got in a couple quiet fans, and cant wait to replace that screamer of a fan underneath! Noctua is awesome, used them on my last PC build and its dead quiet. Might just use two 12v fans in series for more air, that way I dont need a step down regulator either although I could just use an LM7812 or a little buck regulator. Are your linear bearings crazy noisy? After I replace that fan, that’s pretty much my only other concern… I’m quite sure its the bearings that I’m hearing, and gosh are they loud. Even after greasing with a little Superlube PTFE grease.
Ideally, the potentiometer is the best choice, along with a switch.
The reason for this is simply to have NO fan for the first 1-5 layers, and then gradually add fan speed. Also, the fan is 24v, much faster and higher rated than 12v. Try to keep the fans running on 24v circuits, there is just not enough air moving with 12v.
When you start using .10, .15 and get really daring and .05mm layer heights, the fan becomes the only way to do that fine of printing.
With a plan, you will do well I’m sure.
We have found the best grease for noiseless operation is Remington Firearm Lube.
Same 40hr interval of clean/lube.
The bearings become noiseless.
I personally do not recommend lithium grease.
Chris,
Would you mind linking to the product you use? All I can find are remington gun oils, and I was told not to use oils for the linear bearings but rather grease. Thank you for the suggestion!
In this specific case, the rem oil is teflon infused. It coats the rods, and inner surfaces of bearings to which silicon sprays and lubes will gum, and jam in some cases the linear bearings.
Switching to this oil can be useful also, as when you start to use it, it will displace the silicon and production oils in the bearings from the factory. Clean often, I also use the Rem-Oil Wipes between oilings.
Excellent thank you Chris! I will grab a bottle next time I drive past the local firearm shop. Cheap too!
Actually the better choice is to connect to the unpopilated terminal for the fan by soldering the correct FET (same FET as all the other FETS), this way you control what layer the fan goes on by the code.
The issue then is you have to add that to the G-code every time before printing an object, which would be a pain. With a switch and a pot I could simply turn it on whenever needed rather than ruining a print and having to modify the code several times depending on when the fan would be needed.
Bob, after all the mods, I can print a wide range of temperatures now it just comes out nice every time. The most noticeable effect is simply the color shade of the plastic now, and I can mess around with temperatures. High 180’s to low 200’s and I only print in pla. Can print polycarbonate and other high temp materials now but I haven’t tried it yet.
My rollers are the noise maker now. I have a drill press arriving today and will drill out some brass bushing to replace the roller bearings, hopefully this weekend.
Yeah I’ve considered making some brass or bronze bushings on my lathe, but have heard mixed things about using them. I see many people changing out bushings to linear bearings on other printers stating it to be an upgrade. I suppose if they ever went out of tolerance I could just turn a couple new sets.
Hmm, that’s an issue for you? I often change settingsfor every print job, and turning fan on is a checkmark or a 1 instead of an 0 in the gcode. After I change my gcode it stays changed, and my fan always cuts on after layer 2… I don’t have to change the fan settings ever it just stays on for layer two at all times. I only print in PLA for now though.
I am wishing to find a recommended settings information for the possible different type of models - fill not fill nozzle temp, plate heat no heat… slowly learning and gathering information but sure screwing up on the way
Hey Roni, make sure to share some of your prints as a separate post and share some of your learnings or tips & tricks on how to 3D print with a CTC machine. I’m sure it will be helpful for many of the people here. Cheers
