sorry, replied to wrong person 
Skip to main content
Chris, I was actually thinking of directly connecting it onto one of the unpopulated terminals of the power supply and installing another switch on the faceplate. Might also add a linear potentiometer for speed control. That way I have simple control. I already did this with the LED lighting I installed (two 12v strips connected in series so that 24V could power them without any modification). Or Ive also considered attaching it to the unpopulated “extra” accessory slot on the board, but not sure if that would give the control I’m looking for.
My rollers are the noise maker now. I have a drill press arriving today and will drill out some brass bushing to replace the roller bearings, hopefully this weekend.
Yeah I’ve considered making some brass or bronze bushings on my lathe, but have heard mixed things about using them. I see many people changing out bushings to linear bearings on other printers stating it to be an upgrade. I suppose if they ever went out of tolerance I could just turn a couple new sets.
Hmm, that’s an issue for you? I often change settingsfor every print job, and turning fan on is a checkmark or a 1 instead of an 0 in the gcode. After I change my gcode it stays changed, and my fan always cuts on after layer 2… I don’t have to change the fan settings ever it just stays on for layer two at all times. I only print in PLA for now though.
I am wishing to find a recommended settings information for the possible different type of models - fill not fill nozzle temp, plate heat no heat… slowly learning and gathering information but sure screwing up on the way
Hey Roni, make sure to share some of your prints as a separate post and share some of your learnings or tips & tricks on how to 3D print with a CTC machine. I’m sure it will be helpful for many of the people here. Cheers
8 days later
Chris …
HELP! I went to readjust the nozzles and quess what… I lost the set screw. Where can I get set screws. look like 3m but not sure of thread screw
Send me an email with your address and we can get one to you.
8 months later
Hi Chris… I’ve designed a Fan mount for ctc printer, so you don’t have to keep taking the fan off, and you can adjust it HOT now… It’s at:-
3 months later
I’m a proud owner of a CTC dual printer and having read this comment, would someone point me in the direction of said modifications, which would allow for 50 micron precision printing?
By the way, I have recently started using a sitall glass plate and am very pleased with the results, the glass works as advertised, no need for hairspray or tape or any other type of adherent, just the glass plate - but it needs to be at real world 110ºC or higher and I managed to achieve that by switching to the Sailfish firmware and replacing the thermistor on the heat bed, from the 50K one included to a 100K thermistor (with the original one I wasn’t getting the correct temperatures as registered by the printer).
That was the only actual modification I have done to my printer, I’m currently printing a few mod parts on thingiverse, so back to 50 micron precision, if anyone happens to know of a guide or information on this, please let me know…!
Many thanks in advance!