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May 2016

I agree that the first layer setting are very heavy. It is close to the max capacity of an extruder. It will probably not melt the plastic quick enough. Resulting in cooler plastic being deposited and maybe even more resistance resulting in missed steps or slipping filamentresulting in less plastic than calculated by the firmware. So lines do not touch and/or are not hot enough to fuse together.

Ah so you think my temp. Is to low I’ve been using maker geeks and pla is needed at 230 and I’ve been trying 200-210 so I’ll try that

No, I think you should decrease bottom layer Line width to 100% and bottom layer thickness to 0.2mm. You will extrude less than half the volume per time unit which is easier to heat up consistantly.

Hi Greg. I see initial layer thickness is still at 0,3mm. Please change to 0,2. Because at 200 percent and 0,3 you were extruding so much filament that it probably compensated a bit for z height error. But at the expense of lines not being wide enough to touch each other. If you do first layer at 100% and 0,2 any z error is much easier to detect. ( and loads on extruder are much lower) Because if to close to the bed, printwidth will become too wide. This becomes visible when infil patterns start to overlap. If to high, lines are not touching. A good workaround is to turn on raft. This will increase the succesrate of many prints and will also compensate most z errors. Good luck

I run my printrbot 1405 with 200% line with with a ubis 13s hotend with no problem but I have to agree espescially if you dont have the new printbot hotend to turn that down to 150% at least.

You can keep it at 200 or 150 then change the layer height to the first layer at .254 then the layer hight at .2064 as these values are calculated from the prusa calculator.

1) Cool the printer.

2) Start the table leveling function.

3) See how many thicknesses of computer printing paper you can get between the print head / nozzle and the print bed.

4) Report back to us the number of layers of paper you can get between the head and build surface

To me it appears to be a gross error in the head to build surface distance.

Also the filament is too cool and the material already printed is cooling too much before the next layer is applied.

Add 20 deg C to filament temperature after you have adjusted the build table height to be correct.

Clean build surface with alcohol before starting next print.

Z height needs to be lowered by about -.25 mm also try moving the z probe closer to the hotend nozzle by screwing it down some as it gets better measurements this way.

The prove is all the way down as far as the screw end goes and the z height is a - 0.9 and yes I will do small increments with the width at 100% correct?

No you can keep it at 150% and printrbot does not advise going past -1 for the z probe so if you end up having to go over you will need to lower the probe.

Sorry for cursing but you fucking got it the probe was to dam. High I do remember when I got the printer I tighten it were it was not thinking off the issues it could cause I am still playing with it but I left the 150% and lowered the probe a little bit I did scratch the bed and ripped my kapton tape on first run got but got a nice test print tell. Me what you think it’s a lot. Better than how I was printing in the past I will adjust the probe if I have to it has slight warp only because I removed it wile it was hot but now we know its the probe any other things I can check to improve if need be let me know

Speed, 45mm, someone may have mentioned, but I don’t see it. On a large flat print like that 45, may be too fast. Having so much printed area, gives the lone first layer time to cool. And moving so quickly, it doesn’t have time to melt to 2 layers together. It also can stretch the extruded plastic, leaving it stressed and wanting to shrink and curl.

40mm/sec when in a hurry, generally I print 25 to 30. Someone with more experience may have a different opinion.