Raise3d.com i have the N2. For $2,500 the best FTM printer you can buy is the M2 in my opinion I have been using it for 8 months and I have paid off the full printer price on 3D hubs I get excellent quality it goes up to 10 microns if you like to take forever. The machine is built very very strong and heavy for commercial application it even looks like a commercial machine is not a toy. Or you can get yourself one of those that everybody likes to build but I don’t know about 10 microns accuracy with a Delta I’m sure that there are easy to make in a large size butt you’re still messing with machine that is mostly open source and people are just putting their own name on it. These even have LCD screens that display everything you need to know including the actual model just look it up and do some research and you’ll see that the features included in this printer blow over all these other printers that people are talking about sorry for any missed typos I’m using voice type on my phone
What really irritates me about threads like these is that too many people post with hidden agendas rather than just offering experiential advice… you end up with a whole host of nonsense written by people who want to either sell you something or simply justify their own glaring consumer mistakes.
Why anyone would buy a 3D printer from a company who wants to ‘lock’ you in to their proprietary material’s is very stupid in my opinion… if we allow them to do this they will… just as they did with ink cartridges in the past… anyone not recognizing that ‘old con’ is a fool and then passing on advice to someone else to do the same is irresponsible in the extreme. If we reject ‘closed’ and restrictive trading practices within 3D printing then machine makers will not be able to sell their ‘consumer cons’… please think before you post whilst also rejecting restrictive practices in 3D printing please. This is a community forum first.
For the genuine posters here no offence intended… for the other idiots… nob off!
Hopefully we have at least given you some choices to research yourself wm1059… much luck and light from me.
’unfollowed’
I second avoiding printers with proprietary filament/cartridges. It severely limits your material choices, it allows suppliers to price gouge, if they are as successful as Sony in proprietary formats, then you’ll be left with a $2500 paper weight. My recommendation is not to support companies/printers like this. Gillette has it right, as the risk in the capital outlay versus the consumables aspect is balanced in cost, the 3D printer world doesn’t make sense. I don’t even use HP printers because of their Inkjet cartridges and ridulous prices and short life of the cartridges.
“Why anyone would buy a printer that locks you into their filament”
answer- for Zortrax you would but their printer because you need a printer that puts out consistent prints with minimum need for maintenance. I would take proprietary filament with consistent high quality results over open source and requiring more work and fine tuning any day.
This is for my needs. I need high output with minimal worrying.
Also with Zortrax you can use other brand filaments it just voids he 1 year warrenty. Not that big of a deal.
Mostly of them are not referred to UM 2+, so you´re not arguing in any way 
I do not expect tricks like adding sewing machine oil to the ptfe as a solution for a printer that costs 2500$…
Read this comment, there are a lot of them referred to this problem
I have a spool of filaflex here but I can’t even manage to get it up to the printhead without the feeder losing grip on it.
I can get it about 2 3rds though the bowden tube before it stops. I’ve tried tightening the skrew on the feeder so it exerts more pressure but to no avail.
So beware, it doesn’t always work and at this point I’m not really comfortable yet in modifying my um2+ 
I’m not aware of any changes to the extruder, but I think the improved reliability has everything to do with the new geared feeder.
The only flexible material I tested was NinjaFlex, I don’t have any experience with Filaflex, maybe that’s softer/more flexible?
Ultimaker 2+ does print flexible filaments, so I have no idea where you got that impression. Additionally, the prints are spectacular. I have seen, and heard the rave reviews for the Zortrax 200, and it does look like a great printer, but as everyone says it is limited when it comes to choices of filaments… That being said, I’m also a big believer that the slicing settings are just as important as the printer itself.
Oh wow you guys are talking about ultimaker printers??? They don’t even have a full enclosure I’m pulling out of this chat I thought it was more serious and it was for like a commercial printer but you guys are now everybody is just recommending the printer that they have. Look up something more commercial and stop buying these name brand toys that are way overpriced.
For 2500 you get a raise3d N2 with up to 10micron accuracy. Fully enclosed and even has an LED touchscreen 7 inches that displays the model you are printing and shows all the data on how long and how tall the print is
I don’t know how you have so many problems with that printer I have my for 8 months as one of the first printers delivered through Kickstarter and I have literally just hit $2,000 on orders and made my money back imprints 24/7 flawlessly in my room and if you’re having problems sticking that is with any printer all you need is a glue stick ever since I started using a glue stick I have never ever ever ever ever ever had anything lift off the bed. I print TPU ABS pla and carbon fiber pla , with absolutely no problem. I have only had to change nozzles. I even got a sample from Amazon on the bunch of different types of filaments and every single one of them worked just fine. They has minor glitches which they have fixed on the newer printers so if you ordered after me you haven’t even better printer hard to believe that you either have a lemon or you just don’t know that you have to tune every single filament you put in there. Especially if you have all that stringing. For you to say you’re going to go to ultimaker. I laugh , I have both printers in the other one is a joke it doesn’t even have an enclosure when you’re Printing and somebody opens a door and a draft comes into the room your print is almost ruined. I go to 3D hubs meetings with a lot of hugs from the area that come and get together and we talked about 3D printing and some of the printers there we have are ultimaker. For you to say that it is very very opposite of what all the 3D hubs in my area we’ll see about that printer not to mention the biggest thing ever which is the fact that the print size is extremely tiny compared to the n2 at 12inchx12inchx12inch.?
Well its probably due to a transport damage, as i experience one sided very rough and protruding surface as well, after 2 weeks the fan holders disintegrated due to temperature change hot/cold, polyflex does a terrible work and same print printed by the raise office and then send foots to me show the same awful surface and deformed print with even missing layers in the print, polysupport not sticking to the material its supposed to support etc. the only fair but not good print i had with my first print in proprietary PLA, the rest of over 40 trial prints with the settings Raise 3d is suggesting and slight variations of their settings just produced catastrophic prints staring with air printing, clogged nozzles, uneven and meteor hit surfaces, not sticking to buildtak you name it.
As i am a printing service business i have no time to sit down with every print for hours and trying to produce a decent outcome i can only say this printer which is advertised as plug and play and professional is in my experience total crap and a technical failure.
I invited two experts which are court approved as ethnical experts in this matter and they after checking the printer sec on my judgement.
its my experience and maybe i got a monday morning unit but thats the reality
regards
Well its probably due to a transport damage, as i experience one sided very rough and protruding surface as well, after 2 weeks the fan holders disintegrated due to temperature change hot/cold, polyflex does a terrible work and same print printed by the raise office and then send foots to me show the same awful surface and deformed print with even missing layers in the print, polysupport not sticking to the material its supposed to support etc. the only fair but not good print i had with my first print in proprietary PLA, the rest of over 40 trial prints with the settings Raise 3d is suggesting and slight variations of their settings just produced catastrophic prints staring with air printing, clogged nozzles, uneven and meteor hit surfaces, not sticking to buildtak you name it.
As i am a printing service business i have no time to sit down with every print for hours and trying to produce a decent outcome i can only say this printer which is advertised as plug and play and professional is in my experience total crap and a technical failure.
I invited two experts which are court approved as ethnical experts in this matter and they after checking the printer sec on my judgement.
its my experience and maybe i got a monday morning unit but thats the reality
regards
Yeah probably transport damage and that sucks I did have a problem where one side of the prince always came out messed up and it turned out to be the actual nozzle I somehow messed up a brand new novel by trying to clean it with a pair of tweezers. Which was a rookie mistake but once I change the nozzle for a stainless steel one I’ve had absolutely amazing quality you should contact me just in case you still have the printer. So I can show you the quality that you should be getting I understand if you don’t have time to turn it that’s why I did end up switching to simplified 3D it required a little bit of tuning in the beginning but once I got the offsets right I have been printing sculptures that have no base and anything that was non 3D printable before. Now i am able easily print. I had ultimaker which I just sold it one of my friends that are starting in 3D printing. I’m so pleased and excited about this printer that I do kind of not get upset but I am a little bit bothered when I hear somebody having completely opposite experience I feel like I must help you so you can prove to raise 3D that you got a defective printer but just to help I’m not a negative person.
Do you print with polyflex and polysupport?
I can send you the STL.file so you can show me. Raise 3D could not.
regards and thanks for your offer to help. I still have the printer trying to return him to IMakr.
Here the test file, model in polyflex and support in Polysupport.
regards
test.STL (1.04 MB)
Interesting, What diameter filament are you using? Is it actually 2.85mm or 3mm?filaflex is 3mm is it not? This would be the main problem feeding it through to the hotend. I personally know from experience the 3mm simply does not work well at all, and it requires a slightly larger bowden tube… That being said, if the filament is 2.85mm(which is the size required) you really should not have any issues feeding it to the hotend at all.
i am using 1.75mm Polyflex and not filaflex
Hi Droneworks, what type of glue stick are you using? Does it work with ABS and HIPS too?