Raise3d.com i have the N2. For $2,500 the best FTM printer you can buy is the M2 in my opinion I have been using it for 8 months and I have paid off the full printer price on 3D hubs I get excellent quality it goes up to 10 microns if you like to take forever. The machine is built very very strong and heavy for commercial application it even looks like a commercial machine is not a toy. Or you can get yourself one of those that everybody likes to build but I don’t know about 10 microns accuracy with a Delta I’m sure that there are easy to make in a large size butt you’re still messing with machine that is mostly open source and people are just putting their own name on it. These even have LCD screens that display everything you need to know including the actual model just look it up and do some research and you’ll see that the features included in this printer blow over all these other printers that people are talking about sorry for any missed typos I’m using voice type on my phone
What really irritates me about threads like these is that too many people post with hidden agendas rather than just offering experiential advice… you end up with a whole host of nonsense written by people who want to either sell you something or simply justify their own glaring consumer mistakes.
Why anyone would buy a 3D printer from a company who wants to ‘lock’ you in to their proprietary material’s is very stupid in my opinion… if we allow them to do this they will… just as they did with ink cartridges in the past… anyone not recognizing that ‘old con’ is a fool and then passing on advice to someone else to do the same is irresponsible in the extreme. If we reject ‘closed’ and restrictive trading practices within 3D printing then machine makers will not be able to sell their ‘consumer cons’… please think before you post whilst also rejecting restrictive practices in 3D printing please. This is a community forum first.
For the genuine posters here no offence intended… for the other idiots… nob off!
Hopefully we have at least given you some choices to research yourself wm1059… much luck and light from me.
I second avoiding printers with proprietary filament/cartridges. It severely limits your material choices, it allows suppliers to price gouge, if they are as successful as Sony in proprietary formats, then you’ll be left with a $2500 paper weight. My recommendation is not to support companies/printers like this. Gillette has it right, as the risk in the capital outlay versus the consumables aspect is balanced in cost, the 3D printer world doesn’t make sense. I don’t even use HP printers because of their Inkjet cartridges and ridulous prices and short life of the cartridges.
“Why anyone would buy a printer that locks you into their filament”
answer- for Zortrax you would but their printer because you need a printer that puts out consistent prints with minimum need for maintenance. I would take proprietary filament with consistent high quality results over open source and requiring more work and fine tuning any day.
This is for my needs. I need high output with minimal worrying.
Also with Zortrax you can use other brand filaments it just voids he 1 year warrenty. Not that big of a deal.
Mostly of them are not referred to UM 2+, so you´re not arguing in any way
I do not expect tricks like adding sewing machine oil to the ptfe as a solution for a printer that costs 2500$…
Read this comment, there are a lot of them referred to this problem
I have a spool of filaflex here but I can’t even manage to get it up to the printhead without the feeder losing grip on it.
I can get it about 2 3rds though the bowden tube before it stops. I’ve tried tightening the skrew on the feeder so it exerts more pressure but to no avail.
So beware, it doesn’t always work and at this point I’m not really comfortable yet in modifying my um2+
Interesting, What diameter filament are you using? Is it actually 2.85mm or 3mm?filaflex is 3mm is it not? This would be the main problem feeding it through to the hotend. I personally know from experience the 3mm simply does not work well at all, and it requires a slightly larger bowden tube… That being said, if the filament is 2.85mm(which is the size required) you really should not have any issues feeding it to the hotend at all.
