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May 2016

Thanks for bringing the dual print up!.

My first couple of tries under SF7.7 were a disaster with the print cartridge trying to drive itself out the left side of the printer. Turns out my extruder X offset had defaulted to 399mm!!!

WARNING! IF YOU UPGRADE TO SF 7.7 DO THE NEXT TWO STEPS…

I found this page:

http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/troubleshooting-common-issues.html 1

I set both X and Y offsets to ZERO (0.0mm) at the front panel using the submenu:

http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/ui-utilities-menu.html#x17-470003.7.11

Dual prints are no longer trying to take the printer apart. The prints are pretty close but about a mm off between layers it looks like.

Looks like I need to do this next to tune it in:

http://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/tuning-dual-extruder-calibration.html 1

Bill

My report on a successful upgrade to Sailfish 7.6.

Or why can’t I just leave things alone instead of putting myself into these situations.

I tried using AVRstudio version 4-7 but was unable figure out how to get it to recognize the usbasp programmer http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AX4WQ00?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02 3 with http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CW80MP6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 2 10 to 6 pin adapter.
What I succeeded in doing was totally erasing the programming from the board. (@&$#)

Remember Google is your friend in times like this and I found a thread in the Google group MakerBot Operators. https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/makerbot/tBTVx85-hpg 5
Titled Loading firmware on a new Mightyboard Rev E.

What they do is link you to the hex files and give instructions needed to reload a blank Mightyboard just like mine was.

Using a program called AVRDude google it and a couple command prompts I was able to reload the hex files giving the board back USB functionality and then the bootloader which had the added benefit of setting the correct fuse bits. I’m not going to go in to detail on how to do It. It’s all in the MakerBot Operators thread.

I had to copy and make the hex files usable then modify and run their command lines to fit my programmer and environment.

The command line I used to load the bootloader hex file.

avrdude -p m1280 -F -P usb -c usbasp -U flash:w:bootloader/atmega1280.hex \ -U lfuse:w:0xFF:m -U hfuse:w:0xDA:m -U efuse:w:0xF4:m -U lock:w:0x0F:m

I do not recommend this procedure unless you’re your desperate and have a so called bricked board.

If you do decide to use this method I will not responsible for the results but you should read the MakerBot Operators thread closely.

Ron

Yikes! And congratulations on getting thru it Ron. Awesome recovery! Glad you are back up and running.

I will see if I can find anything about using AVR studio with these 3rd party vendor ISP programmers. The AVR studio way is obviously easier (and less heart stopping). I had just assumed, incorrectly it seems, that the 3rd party vendors would emulate an ISP programmer Atmel already makes.

(Perhaps just the command line for reprogramming the fuses with AVRDude…)

See my comment below on resetting the extruder offset in SF before doing any dual extruder prints. You will want to do that sooner than later…

Bill

Ron,

It appears that there is some software out there for this programmer that will allow fuse bit programming.

If you could check this out and see if it works, it may be of help to others trying this (and may prevent the memory erasure and not having to go thru avrdude):

http://extremeelectronics.co.in/software/extreme-burner-avr-1-3-beta-test/ 1

If you watch this video, at 32 seconds they show a fuse bit programming page:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-V-jv4jSQw 4

Appears that you could go in and simply alter the fuse bits.

Bill

Bill,

I tried the eXtreme Burner AVR program with my usbasp programmer on an old CTC I picked up from Craigslist. Didn’t want to risk the Qidi Tech but it has the same board. The eXtreme burner does not have a ATmega 1280 chip option so you do get an error while reading the fuse bits. The fuse bits I read off the CTC was Low FF, High DA, Ext. FD, Lock CC and Calibration FFFFFFB6. Didn’t try to change anything but it looks like it might work. eXtreme Burner does have a ATmega2560 chip option.

Hope this helps

Ron

Thanks Ron, that does give us hope we might be able use these programmers.

I put in a request to the eXtreme Tech website to include the Atmega1280.

Hopefully they will consider that, but the Atmega2560 selection may work just fine.

Bill

4 months later

I have recently purchased one from Amazon(15 Apr) and have been printing almost daily.

Lots of things on thingiverse to upgrade and very easy to level and use.

22 days later
12 days later
1 year later
1 year later

OK Ill try that see what happens thank you no instructions came with the machine

It worked thank you wow but it sure takes time printing

3D printing is not fast! Somewhere around grass growing and paint drying!
Glad you got going though.