The design has overhangs, for example at the eyebrows and ears. I found my trial Marvin had problems with these overhangs.
(like with the ears of your Marvin) Increasing layer thickness from 0,05 to 0,1 helped. So your layer thickness should be allright.
(the printed material tends to sack less if the extruded cylinder is thicker)
Put the fans at 100%…
Perhaps you can play with the speed some more. My Vertex can work at 100 mm/s quite nicely.
The extruder head will then have less time to transfer heat to a product area, and do better at overhangs…
I did receive two bottem plates instead :-). Received like you some spare parts as well for the second extruder. You do need these if you would like to install a second extruder.
I have seen some influence with air flow that comes from all sides. Many people have developed special ventilation nozzles so probably it is worth investigating this.
Next test: calibrating E stepper… Velleman firmware says 200 steps/mm, the real good value is about 150 steps/mm. Change it and , miracle, no more over extrusion (under extrusion to be honnest) (center image)
Last Marvin (i begin to hate him :)) resliced with 100% extrusion flow and I now think I’m done with physical issues. (right image)
Of course it’s still not perfect but I’ll try to improve it more by changing Cura settings.
Thanks again million times for your help, this community is really great.
Nice community effort indeed! Looking forward to seeing more of your prints @Ponzi3D. I’ve heard good things about the Velleman printers, but didn’t get to see them in action just yet.
What I would do (sorry if some steps seems mindless):
dismount everything concerning the print head (steppers, belts, pulley, rods,etc…)
check if the 4*8 mm rods of the head carriage are the good ones (i mean 298 mm on X axis and 289 mm on Y)
remount the gliders are at the correct distance (about 33,6 cm and 32.8 cm). One my own vertex, I had to reduce to about 33,4
insert the 4 8 mm rods, the printed head carriage but without any pulley
close the rods endstops (the black ones with the bearings)
now the carriage should move without any resistance. Just moving the printer should move it in all ways
if needed, tune the lenght between the end pieces of the head carriage
when every thing is smooth, check if you own the V2 pulley (the ones with 2 screws). If not, ask Velleman for replacement.
dismount the print head carriage by removing the transmission rods
reput everything with the pulleys and the belts but without steppers motors BEWARE, the belts have 2 sizes (670 and 685 mm), double check !
tighten the belt clamps at maximum so the belts are “tighten but not too much”
align the rods (using a caliper or the printed tool from thingiverse)
tighten the pulley to lock everything in place
you could now move the printhead with just a little resistance
mount back the steppers motors, tighten the belt by pushing the motor down while screwing. I think this is the most important tuning to do !!! If not enought thightned, the 2 axis will not move synchronised, if too much, the steppers could miss steps and then be not synchronised (I didn’t watch your video seems I’m at work and can’t reach youtube). I think it could also lead to over power needs and drivers overheat…
add plenty of grease on all rods !
normally the go home for the vertex’s panel should work well by now.
with the panel, move the head by 10 mm steps on X and Y axis, again with 1 mm steps then 0.1 mm
listen the noise of the moves… normally you should hear quite nothing.
use go home again and calibrate the printbed Z heigth. (4 layers of normal paper could slide between the nozzle and the bed with just a little friction)
disconnect the PTFE filament tube on the extruder output
cut the filament just on the output
extrude (with panel or software) 100 mm of filament and cut it to mesure the lenght. You’ll certainly get about 135 mm. In this case, correct the E stepper value in the firmware from 200 to 150 and test again while you get 100 mm (or 101, it still far better than 135).
reconnect the tube
After all that work, I can’t see any reason why your printer could be unable to print !
Using your STL, I’ll try to print your part tonight. As you use a Mac too (i think), i’ll send you my Cura settings and the gcode i get, if you want.
I’ll reply to you in french on the Velleman forum.
Dans le panel de l’imprimante, je ne sais plus le nom de menus, je vais jeter un oeil ce soir.
Je te répondrais aussi sur le forum Velleman sur tes parmètres de slicer, déjà la taille de buse n’est pas bonne. Essaye d’installer Slic3r, je pourrais t’envoyer les paramètres de mon mac.
Bah… on peux en parler… LöL J’ai eu tellement de soucis de pièces avec l’imprimante que je m’accorde très volontiers cet oubli qui m’aura fait perdre BEAUCOUP de temps!
Thanks a lot for the help, I’ll try a Marvin tonight with the nozzle @ 0.35 (these are the default parameters for the K8400 profile in S3D)
The print is a bit better… which is not sufficient for me. Could you please provide a Marvin gcode and some photo of yours so I can test if my printer without having to deal with the settings first?
The tip is to slow down the print speed and the flowrate. It’s sliced @30mm/s and the rate @ 80% so it print really slow (about one hour for Marvin !).
The last thing to correct is the last layers (on the hook) which are still ugly.
