You can always put a cardboard box over the entire printer, this will keep a lot of heat in until you enclose properly, some people put their printer in an empty wardrobe…
Skip to main content
So, it seems that finishing my enclosure is the first think to change. I had two reasons not two. First, I mentionned already, the big fan. But let’s discard that one. The second one was that the whole printer is enclosed in a closet. Ok, the volume of the closet is 3 times the printer, so I guess I’ll really need to enclose only the print zone to get an effective “heat chamber”. But wait, enclosing a flashforge creator, that’s not a piece of cake. Oh my. The top needs to be huge, and let the filament go through. I guess I need to build some kind of pyramid shaped top with a small hole for the PTFE tubing.
See the Flashforge website you’ll see the Top enclosure
Scroll down a tiny bit,
Also check this out
Even having an enclosure on my FF Creator Pro, it seems that at .1mm I have a hard time with warping. My sweet spot is at .2mm and 10-30% as previously mentioned. It still looks really great, and much easier to print. Also having a Taz 5 and building an enclosure for it, I can attest to how crucial an enclosure is to getting great prints on ABS. Hope that helps!
Ah, it’s always the simple projects that give us the most trouble! I tell ya, the deformation you are getting seems to be coming from your heat bed temperature. I know that sounds odd, but I’ve been printing exclusively with ABS plastic and I’ve gotten too many results that look just like that! 110 is a very high setting for you to keep the print bed at throughout the duration of the print. If Simplify3D has the setting to change the heat bed temperature based on the layer of the print, you may want to try printing the first layer at 110 and then backing it down to 90 - 95 for the rest. Since I’ve adopted this scheme, I’ve never had the issue since. FYI, I use Slic3r.
I wouldn’t exactly recommend just setting the base temperature to 90 - 95 because then you get the prints warping up off the bed, as well as other adhesion issues with smaller/thinner prints. ABS is a tricky beast, but I’m going to have a crack at this piece myself to see if I have any luck with it! Will post results soon 
Hello,
I’m very impressed by the advice’s I’m getting here. updated defaults settings in simplify3d to do that. i’ve heard of it before, but I was not sure until you insisted on it (I also heard that spreading holly water on the extruder nozzle prevents it from clogging ever).
Thanks, I’ll post the results soon!
So far, Honeycomb (full) aint my thing concerning in ABS warping. Attached, the second piece I have to print. Started warping crazy after a few layers only. 15% infill. still 110° bed all time. Switched to linear infill, will be able to compare bot patterns (I DO suspect patterns to have a bigger impact than one can think, I just need to confirm/infirm my theroy 
Update: Attached, ongoing print with linear infill. Same settings, no warping. Theory confirmed. At least for Simplify3D honecomb patterns.2015_0809_232529_001.JPG 24
The Print I did came out pretty damn good, some pics here
Turn off the Fan altogether when doing ABS, ABS needs the heat, so turn it off with ABS Prints
Settings were the same except for Bed Temp, which was 105
Extruder was 230
Layer Height = .10
Top and Bottom Layers = 7
Infill = 50% Honeycomb
First Layer Height = 90%
Buy a Zortrax and forget of issues.
Unique attempt Z-ABS 0.19 layers 100% infill, 0 warpage, top notch quality.
If you run a business toying around with poor results doesn’t help anyone.
Buy good equipment, software, keep a clean and organized space(your place is a dissaster), with those pictures I’ll never buy anything from you. Some AM training will be useful too.
Be professional.
So here are my results. From left to right, the settings are as follows:
1.
Extrusion Temp: 225
Heat Bed Temp: 110 first layer, 95 after
Resolution: 0.2mm
Infill: Rectilinear - 10%
2.
Extrusion Temp: 225
Heat Bed Temp: 110 first layer, 95 after
Resolution: 0.15mm
Infill: Rectilinear - 50%
3.
Extrusion Temp: 225
Heat Bed Temp: 110 first layer, 95 after
Resolution: 0.1mm
Infill: Honeycomb - 75%
The first one goes with my settings, and the other two are based on the settings you listen. The one on the right catastrophically failed because of a loose bolt on the heating bed, causing the bed to shift which resulted in…well, that! I’ve since corrected the issue, and I am now printing three more with the bed at a constant 110 temp.
*EDIT*
So from what you can see here, leaving the heating bed on too high can have rather adverse effects that seem to be incredibly close to what you have. Even though my default configuration (1) didn’t warp as much as the other ones, you can still see that the print quality suffered dramatically. The red one wouldn’t print all the way the second go around, but the effects were similar from what did print XD
TL;DR - The problem is not the heating chamber or your infill/resolution settings, but rather the heating bed. Make sure to start the print out at 110 on the first layer, and 90 - 95 for the rest of the layers.
I am speechless. Indeed the temperature drop seems to be the solution. I’ll be on it asap (Short of white ABS? should be delivered this afternoon so I’ll try tonight.
Thank youy very, very much for your help!
Indeed, I’m impressed. Which slicer? I’m asking because besides the 105° instead of 110 (that must already be one important improvement it I refer to all remarks), there are no different settings than mines. Also you succeded keeping .1mm layers, hurrah! But I pretty sure that if I try 75% honeycomb is Simplify3D, i’ll be very dissapointed!
Ok, that’s a surprise. Did you use fast or full honeycomb? I need to try to reproduce your settings. maybe I’ve got shitty ABS after all??? Another question, I did not bring it so far beacause I thought it is not important, but how thick is your exterior wall? 2 layers?
Fast Honeycomb, 2 Shells, 6 Top Layers, 6 Bottom Layers, First Layer Height 100%, First Layer Width 100%, First Layer Speed 50%, Extruder Multiplier .90, that is in the Extruder Setting first Tab, Hot End 230 Degrees, 105 for the Bed, NO COOLING FANS, Please take that huge fan away from your Printer when you do ABS :-).
Infill was at 50% for the pictures I showed you earlier.
Hope that helps you a bit
It Surely do. Keep you tuned, thanks again
Hello “Grupo”,
First, thanks a lot for the demo. I know Zortrax have an excellent reputation. Do you also consider that Z-ABS is much better than the average ABS filament you can find out-there?
In this particular case, You did 3 thinks that must help a lot: 100% infill means no room for shrinking, and .19mm layer is not HD (according to 3dhubs). Also, using a dense, wide raft is certainly a plus. But anyway the result is impressive.
I try not to use raft to get a nice bottom on parts, but that’s a no excuse in this case because a raft would have helped me a lot and tat part is technical, so I should have done it.
With all the upgrades made on my FF (lighter, single head, metal arms, high quality nozzle, borosilicate bed), I still think I can have a go at trying your settings, I’ll post the results when done, I promess.
About software, I bought it (simplify3D) and it is good.
I agree that Additive Manufacturing training would be a plus, but something, I believe, separates us: For me, 3D is a hobby in which I’m doing my best and learn experience through trial and error. Give me the best printer ever, and I’ll not have much left to learn. Not my approach. About the results and the satisfaction of my customers, In short, just look at my rating. I never give up, I always deliver, and top notch quality is my credo too. That is, I believe, what being professional also is.
About how my space is organized… Well. I run/build 6 printers, and I’m running out of space. But be reassured: I never use my printers to store stuff, so quality should not be impacted
That being said, and because I realy do appreciate that you had a run on it, I won’t tell you that you are slightly provocative!
Cheers.
“Hey! Look! This guy is having a hard time and seeking help with a print job instead of simply delivering a crappy product to a customer… lets belittle him and tell him he needs to clean his room!” - GroupoXDS
Come on man, the guy is looking for help and improving. Why be provocative. Is it because he has (WOW!!!) 30 reviews and a 5 star rating while you have just 1 review and a 3 star rating? Obviously someone likes what he does.
Hey all, I combined advises from @ZUES, @waswart, @nagarajgaru, that made me do:
- 110° first layer,
- 95° next layers
- 50% fast honeycomb Infill (not that it was needed to be that high but @ZUES made me wanna try :-))
- .4mm, 2shells
- .1mm layer height (now, that is challenging…)
- Big raft and supports (that was inspired from @The_Build_Shop posted pictures, thanks!)
- 60mm/s
- No fan
- Printer enclosed on each side but the top, “wardrobe” closed !
So far, first 15mm are looking pretty good. Let’s see soon the results.
That’s for now. On a longer timescale, I’ll follow advices from @3Timmerman and @waswart about finishing my enclosure.
I will not follow advice from @The_Build_Shop to buy a Zortrax because i’ve almost finished a 57cm tall delta and a 50/50/50cm 3 colors reprap printers, I’m upgrading my Prusa i3 rework, and I still have that cute little smartrap to test, so I’m too busy right now, but maybe one day, if my own CNC projects fails apically…But I’ll probalby try the Z-ABS filament to see if he is any better. Also, I love the perforated bed of that zortrax, i’ll definitly remember to try that. I’ve a oneup coming (blocked at the customs for a month now…) with this volcanic plate hot bed, very curious about how it will stick there.
Little quiz: How many printers do you see on the attached pic 
2015_0810_221441_001.JPG 5
LQ2: Do you see the extruder?
LQ3: do you see any mess?
LQ4: do you see any Nerf gun? :-))))
Thanks to all of you for your tremendous support, with a special price to @zarli
PS: To all of you. Anybody with a hot bed should try this: http://www.3dprima.com/en 2 . I just spray it on my glass for everything and it does a fantastic job. For a cold bed, better stick to the airspray or slury.
I would recommend Resin printing because it will be the highest resolution you can get.
I would see what it costs priced out and then if the cost doesn’t seem to much give it a shot.
-Maya
Glad someone else thinks like me, I was thinking the same thing exactly, I guess Groupo wanted to cut himself off from any help that he may need in the future, not sure anyone would want to help someone with this attitude.
Top feedback guys! Really impressed
Picked up, very happy customer, thanks to you guys!
Beautiful results! I am glad that we were able to help you deliver a good product to a (no-doubt) satisfied customer
Happy to see that somebody else loves Dimafix. It’s a must have to me now. Avoided countless rafts and warps. For the rest, advices on this thread sum it up pretty well: 90-95° top after the first layer at 110° for the bed, No fans unless really necessary but then inside a closed chamber, not too fast print to give each layer a chance to “adapt”… Avoiding too dense infills also helps. (Except maybe for 100% infill?)