Hello,
I’m very impressed by the advice’s I’m getting here. updated defaults settings in simplify3d to do that. i’ve heard of it before, but I was not sure until you insisted on it (I also heard that spreading holly water on the extruder nozzle prevents it from clogging ever).
Thanks, I’ll post the results soon!
I am speechless. Indeed the temperature drop seems to be the solution. I’ll be on it asap (Short of white ABS? should be delivered this afternoon so I’ll try tonight.
Thank youy very, very much for your help!
Indeed, I’m impressed. Which slicer? I’m asking because besides the 105° instead of 110 (that must already be one important improvement it I refer to all remarks), there are no different settings than mines. Also you succeded keeping .1mm layers, hurrah! But I pretty sure that if I try 75% honeycomb is Simplify3D, i’ll be very dissapointed!
Ok, that’s a surprise. Did you use fast or full honeycomb? I need to try to reproduce your settings. maybe I’ve got shitty ABS after all??? Another question, I did not bring it so far beacause I thought it is not important, but how thick is your exterior wall? 2 layers?
Fast Honeycomb, 2 Shells, 6 Top Layers, 6 Bottom Layers, First Layer Height 100%, First Layer Width 100%, First Layer Speed 50%, Extruder Multiplier .90, that is in the Extruder Setting first Tab, Hot End 230 Degrees, 105 for the Bed, NO COOLING FANS, Please take that huge fan away from your Printer when you do ABS :-).
Infill was at 50% for the pictures I showed you earlier.
Hope that helps you a bit 
It Surely do. Keep you tuned, thanks again
Hello “Grupo”,
First, thanks a lot for the demo. I know Zortrax have an excellent reputation. Do you also consider that Z-ABS is much better than the average ABS filament you can find out-there?
In this particular case, You did 3 thinks that must help a lot: 100% infill means no room for shrinking, and .19mm layer is not HD (according to 3dhubs). Also, using a dense, wide raft is certainly a plus. But anyway the result is impressive.
I try not to use raft to get a nice bottom on parts, but that’s a no excuse in this case because a raft would have helped me a lot and tat part is technical, so I should have done it.
With all the upgrades made on my FF (lighter, single head, metal arms, high quality nozzle, borosilicate bed), I still think I can have a go at trying your settings, I’ll post the results when done, I promess.
About software, I bought it (simplify3D) and it is good.
I agree that Additive Manufacturing training would be a plus, but something, I believe, separates us: For me, 3D is a hobby in which I’m doing my best and learn experience through trial and error. Give me the best printer ever, and I’ll not have much left to learn. Not my approach. About the results and the satisfaction of my customers, In short, just look at my rating. I never give up, I always deliver, and top notch quality is my credo too. That is, I believe, what being professional also is.
About how my space is organized… Well. I run/build 6 printers, and I’m running out of space. But be reassured: I never use my printers to store stuff, so quality should not be impacted
That being said, and because I realy do appreciate that you had a run on it, I won’t tell you that you are slightly provocative!
Cheers.
“Hey! Look! This guy is having a hard time and seeking help with a print job instead of simply delivering a crappy product to a customer… lets belittle him and tell him he needs to clean his room!” - GroupoXDS
Come on man, the guy is looking for help and improving. Why be provocative. Is it because he has (WOW!!!) 30 reviews and a 5 star rating while you have just 1 review and a 3 star rating? Obviously someone likes what he does.
Hey all, I combined advises from @ZUES, @waswart, @nagarajgaru, that made me do:
- 110° first layer,
- 95° next layers
- 50% fast honeycomb Infill (not that it was needed to be that high but @ZUES made me wanna try :-))
- .4mm, 2shells
- .1mm layer height (now, that is challenging…)
- Big raft and supports (that was inspired from @The_Build_Shop posted pictures, thanks!)
- 60mm/s
- No fan
- Printer enclosed on each side but the top, “wardrobe” closed !
So far, first 15mm are looking pretty good. Let’s see soon the results.
That’s for now. On a longer timescale, I’ll follow advices from @3Timmerman and @waswart about finishing my enclosure.
I will not follow advice from @The_Build_Shop to buy a Zortrax because i’ve almost finished a 57cm tall delta and a 50/50/50cm 3 colors reprap printers, I’m upgrading my Prusa i3 rework, and I still have that cute little smartrap to test, so I’m too busy right now, but maybe one day, if my own CNC projects fails apically…But I’ll probalby try the Z-ABS filament to see if he is any better. Also, I love the perforated bed of that zortrax, i’ll definitly remember to try that. I’ve a oneup coming (blocked at the customs for a month now…) with this volcanic plate hot bed, very curious about how it will stick there.
Little quiz: How many printers do you see on the attached pic 
2015_0810_221441_001.JPG 5
LQ2: Do you see the extruder?
LQ3: do you see any mess?
LQ4: do you see any Nerf gun? :-))))
Thanks to all of you for your tremendous support, with a special price to @zarli
PS: To all of you. Anybody with a hot bed should try this: http://www.3dprima.com/en 2 . I just spray it on my glass for everything and it does a fantastic job. For a cold bed, better stick to the airspray or slury.
I would recommend Resin printing because it will be the highest resolution you can get.
I would see what it costs priced out and then if the cost doesn’t seem to much give it a shot.
-Maya
Glad someone else thinks like me, I was thinking the same thing exactly, I guess Groupo wanted to cut himself off from any help that he may need in the future, not sure anyone would want to help someone with this attitude.
Top feedback guys! Really impressed
Picked up, very happy customer, thanks to you guys!
Beautiful results! I am glad that we were able to help you deliver a good product to a (no-doubt) satisfied customer
Happy to see that somebody else loves Dimafix. It’s a must have to me now. Avoided countless rafts and warps. For the rest, advices on this thread sum it up pretty well: 90-95° top after the first layer at 110° for the bed, No fans unless really necessary but then inside a closed chamber, not too fast print to give each layer a chance to “adapt”… Avoiding too dense infills also helps. (Except maybe for 100% infill?)
I am so Glad I ignored all advice and jumped straight into ABS when I first started, everyone said do PLA till your good at that, then try ABS, our family is used to tackling the hardest first, so ABS to me is Easy as waking up in the morning.
I’d rather do ABS any day before PLA, I find PLA is very messy.
Hi Guys,
Great thread, I have really learnt a lot from reading it. I basically only print with ABS (I have an Makerbot Replicator 2X fourth gen) and I sometimes have trouble with prints stopping extruding a few hours into a print and I don’t know why. After reading this I think it may be too much cooling from the fans? The problem is I don’t know if you can change the settings in the makerbot software and I am thinking of getting Simplify3D but I want to confirm it is my settings and not any hardware related problems first. I have attached a photo which failed 2 hours into a 4 hr print.
My printer is fully enclosed and I seal it up to stop heat leakage, I use 120C bed temp (found I got better results with hotter?), 230C extrusion, 10% hex infill, default fan settings and extrusion speeds. I have also swapped out both thermocouples, heating elements and 1 nozzle (upgrade) and this didn’t fix the problem.
Any advice much appreciated.
Cheers
Andrew
Can I ask you what brand of ABS are you using?
Your settings seem ok, I love the sticky note about the desk, lolz, careful someone don’t tell you that your messy, Bwhaaa, not me, I’m messier than that& my ABS is always good…
That photo is from a brand of ABS called Thinglab (I am in Australia) but I also have genuine Makerbot filament and the extrusion stopping happens with both. I try to keep them packed away with dehumidfying packets to stop moisture getting into them but I don’t know if it helps.
Have you checked your Feeder, your feeder may be clogged a bit, the only time my prints stop like that is the filament stops due to dirty feeder roller.
Check and clean the feed roller/sprocket, whatever you like to call the damn thing.
I clean it occasionally and yeah it is typically a bit dirty. So after that print above I unloaded the filament and then reloaded it and now I’m printing the object/bracket in this thread to test the printer and it appears to be working fine (so the feeder should still be dirty but maybe cleaned out a little with the filament replacement). How do I stop the feeder getting clogged during a print? (if you have any ideas) because if I’m running a print for 12 hours and it clogs after 3 even if I clean it at the start the print will fail.
Hey Andrew,
Glad you are able to absorb some useful knowledge from the thread! A lot of good information available here, and maybe we can add some more 
A print stopping midway through for no reason is an issue I experience myself from time to time. I do not know why this happens, but assuming yours isn’t jamming, I have found some decent solutions that have worked for me. The first thing I would recommend is trying a different set of slicer software. Download Slic3r (http://slic3r.org/) and configure it for your printer. I have included starting and ending gcode for your printer to use in Slic3r if you need it. Try using that and see if that works. The other solution that may work would be to re-orient the part in the software (turn it around, 90 degress, etc.) I haven’t found any information online as to why a print stops mid way through, so it truly is a mystery! Give those things a shot and let me know how it goes!
Also, are you able to print other objects successfully?
*EDIT* - Gcode has been attached in a PDF to keep things organized!
Bonus Code.pdf (119 KB)
Hi CMDRReservoir,
No I don’t think it is jamming, I mean when I pull the filament out it is stripped where the gear has been crunching against the filament and it hasn’t been moving but then the nozzle is all clear and all I have to do is unload the filament and then reload it and it works fine.
Yeah I can print other objects fine, it just does it with the long ones occasionally for some reason, I have almost finished the bracket/object from this thread and it looks great and all I did was unload/reload the filament.
Ok cheers I will look into that, thanks for the g code I am definitely not much of a g code writer.
Andrew
Andrew,
Thank you for printing the test object, that helps! The print looked pretty good, and if there was any clogging or obstruction, you’d have some thin walls and cracks (provided it even printed at all). I would try the few things I mentioned, and if you need any help setting up Slic3r, let me know! I’ve been using it for quite some time, and know its peculiarities. Did you design this object or download it?
Nate
Hi Nate,
No this is the object from the start of this thread I just downloaded it. Do you know if I can export the file type as an .x3g with Slic3r?
Cheers
Andrew
Andrew,
Hahaha, I meant the object you are trying to print! Should have specified XD Is that an original design or a downloaded STL? And as far as exporting from Slic3r to .x3g, there is unfortunately no built in way to do it; however, you can download ReplicatorG (http://replicat.org/) and that has a nifty .x3g coversion button (I’ve included a screengrab for you). There is a way to do it in Slic3r with some perl script but that is a little more trouble than it’s worth, imo. If you want to give it a whirl though, here is a guide:
http://www.3duniverse.org/2014/01/05/using-slic3r-with-a-flashforge-creator/
Just scroll down to the Converting from G-Code to .X3G Using GPX as a Slic3r Post-Processor and it’ll tell you how to do it.
Nate
