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Sep 2015

I don’t use hairspray, but I do use another alternative method. I have Kapton tape. It isn’t the base layer though. I usually have a raft on my prints to deal with that issue. The bad adhesion is happening on top of the raft. I thought it was strange since it is filament on filament adhesion.

I would suggest that he plastic is not hot enough to get a good adhesion on the first layer - up the temperature and drop the cooling - ABS especially will not like to be excessively cooled - also ensure that your slicer is laying down a good layer thickness on the first layer.

I was experimenting with some new filament I got from winbo tech, so I changed a few of my settings around to try and fix my stringing issue. I have now set my retraction to 8 mm, my extrusion temp to 228C, and my bed temperature to 100. Does that sound like a better direction to go in?

Thanks.

I replaced the section a few days ago and I was still getting the same results… Have you ever used filament from Winbo-Tech before? That is the filament that started this issue.

Hairspray will make the difference. Kaptin tape, doesn’t work for me.

Dear Dalvin,

Forget everything you learnt from printing PLA. ABS is a hard material to print. It is very hard to print ABS with a printer without a totally closed print chamber.

What you can do:

1. Set the bed temperature to 100 - 110 C

2. Extrude at a higher temperature. We mostly extrude at 235 C but this depends on the filament you use. Lower temperatures decreases layer adhesion as it is in your case.

3. If there is any, shutdown any air condition in the room. Close the windows.

4. Do not use any nozzle fan. Shut it off. It is for printing PLA.

5. Apply a fresh layer of Elmer’s glue stick or UHU glue stick (also TESA glue stick works) to your print bed.

6. Do not expect a succesful print of a big object with ABS withou a closed chamber.

Hope it can help. Especially items 2, 3 and 4 may solve your problem.

I have my bed temp set at 100. For some reason my extruder head will only go up to 230C. That is better than 228C though… I am really going to consider creating a plexiglass enclosure for my Orion. I had a feeling that that was the case. I have been experimenting and printing bigger object and that is when I am seeing the adhesion issue. I have done all of the other steps. Thank you so much for your advice!

- Dalvin

I had a similar problem, trying to break through the 230 barrier after I installed a E3d. The firmware limits the max extruder temp because the plastic part of the J head will melt at 240.

I agree, this is by far the best method for getting good layer adhesion. I actually have two build plates, one reserved for general use, one reserved for Kapton tape and ABS slurry. I took a nice (relatively) sealed glass bottle, cut some strips of filament and dropped them in side, then poured some acetone in. I keep it on a shelf and just slather it on if I need to print in ABS.

One thing to note is that it is better to apply the acetone slurry before you heat the bed. If you apply it while hot, it causes the slurry to bubble before the acetone evaporates, and the ABS left behind becomes pitted.