Hi.
Is there a way to print a 2-sided medallion similar to the attached pic?
I’m making learning tools for the visually impaired and would like to print medallions with English on one side and Braille on the other, like a ‘flash’ card.
Have attached image of a current, 1-sided ‘tag’ approach test.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
~T.~
Probably the best bet and especially if they are small is to print two halves and glue them together. This would give you the best print probably.
Another option may be to print them standing up but bed adhesion could be tricky and you may also need a small size nozzle to get good definition.
Thanks!
Hi @SNARK I would think you’ll probably need to print them in SLA rather than FDM to achieve the precision and detail of the braille, this would also give you a much more detailed and smooth surface for the image side. It would also have the advantage of being able to print the medallion in one piece. Whereabouts are you?
Hi. Thanks for reply. In Jacksonville, Fl. Am okay with current 1-sided approach but interested in the more interesting medallion approach. ~T.~
Hello @SNARK,
3D printers are like hammers. when you have a nail you do not want to use a ball pin hammer. Same is true for your situation, FDM, SLA, and SLS are not the right tools. With Hi Rez detail on dual sided objects I would assume that MJP (Multi Jet Printing) would be your best option with a UXD build. MJP technology utilizes a wax support system that melts off. This means that nearly any geometric shape can be obtained. UXD means that it will be printed at roughly 16 micron layers. the process first lays a 32 micron layer before planing to 16 micron layer. This means distinguishing layer from layer would be extremely hard even for someone who “sees” with their fingers. If you look on my hub you will see the detail I am referring to. if you have any questions please let me know.
Best,
JM
I think a good and affordable solution would be to print SLA on a Form 2. I would recommend splitting the model, and putting a fitting groove around the edge (so the parts just fall into each other when assembling). Then print each piece face up on the Form 2, so the supports are opposite the functional face. Then for assembly, after all the supports have been removed, you can actually brush on some uncured resin (the same it is printed in) on one of the mating faces, assemble tightly, and put into a post cure box. This post cure will bond the two parts well. You will end up with a solid piece with two very clean faces. Happy to help with this if needed; our hub is in south Florida. Hope that helps!
Thanks. Will investigate. ~T.~
Thanks, Dustin, I appreciate all the input. Can you recommend a service? I need someone I can send a ‘concept’ (like attached) to someone I can work with online to produce the proto. Once approved, I will need to mold the 2 pieces (multiple prints for a gang mold) so they can be mass produced. Thoughts? ~T.~
Trying not to sound like a solicitor, but I’d be happy to offer these services. Another option, you could search 3DHubs for a hub locally that offers CAD design, as there may be extra benefit if you can find a good partner close by. You will certainly want to take a different approach for injection molding, as this would be very easy to do one piece and run the parting line right down the middle.
Because the probability of finding a designer who is familiar with braille is probably pretty low, it would be best if you had the text you want in an AI or PDF file, as those can be pretty easily transferred to a CAD design.
Hi, Dustin.
I’ve got ZBrush and Maya and Adobe CS. Can I rotate your models in any of those?
I’m a little concerned about printing each half with 2-sides to include the registration. That means 2-piece molds on my end for each half. If, instead, the halves could be printed with a flat side and some kind of simple hinged jig could also be printed that would hold the halves correctly as they were pressed together with a spot of glue in between.
Thoughts?
~T.~
ZBrush and Maya should be able to open solid bodies.
The registration would simply be to ensure correct alignment upon assembly, would be very thin and fine; unnoticeable in the finished part . The finished part would be nearly seamless, one piece, with the details on each side. If you were making molds with these parts as masters, you would be using the finished and assembled part as the master.
Hi.
I want to thank everyone for all the great info. Will consider. Last question: anybody in Jacksonville, FL? Would like to come by and see your set-up.
Thanks!
~T.~
Tim Lawrence
