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Jun 2017

Hi.

Is there a way to print a 2-sided medallion similar to the attached pic?

I’m making learning tools for the visually impaired and would like to print medallions with English on one side and Braille on the other, like a ‘flash’ card.

Have attached image of a current, 1-sided ‘tag’ approach test.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

~T.~

  • created

    Jun '17
  • last reply

    Jun '17
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Probably the best bet and especially if they are small is to print two halves and glue them together. This would give you the best print probably.

Another option may be to print them standing up but bed adhesion could be tricky and you may also need a small size nozzle to get good definition.

Hi @SNARK I would think you’ll probably need to print them in SLA rather than FDM to achieve the precision and detail of the braille, this would also give you a much more detailed and smooth surface for the image side. It would also have the advantage of being able to print the medallion in one piece. Whereabouts are you?

Hi. Thanks for reply. In Jacksonville, Fl. Am okay with current 1-sided approach but interested in the more interesting medallion approach. ~T.~

Hello @SNARK,

3D printers are like hammers. when you have a nail you do not want to use a ball pin hammer. Same is true for your situation, FDM, SLA, and SLS are not the right tools. With Hi Rez detail on dual sided objects I would assume that MJP (Multi Jet Printing) would be your best option with a UXD build. MJP technology utilizes a wax support system that melts off. This means that nearly any geometric shape can be obtained. UXD means that it will be printed at roughly 16 micron layers. the process first lays a 32 micron layer before planing to 16 micron layer. This means distinguishing layer from layer would be extremely hard even for someone who “sees” with their fingers. If you look on my hub you will see the detail I am referring to. if you have any questions please let me know.

Best,

JM

I think a good and affordable solution would be to print SLA on a Form 2. I would recommend splitting the model, and putting a fitting groove around the edge (so the parts just fall into each other when assembling). Then print each piece face up on the Form 2, so the supports are opposite the functional face. Then for assembly, after all the supports have been removed, you can actually brush on some uncured resin (the same it is printed in) on one of the mating faces, assemble tightly, and put into a post cure box. This post cure will bond the two parts well. You will end up with a solid piece with two very clean faces. Happy to help with this if needed; our hub is in south Florida. Hope that helps!

Hi.

I want to thank everyone for all the great info. Will consider. Last question: anybody in Jacksonville, FL? Would like to come by and see your set-up.

Thanks!

~T.~

Tim Lawrence

ConservationArts.net