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Hi, If no-one else is able to help out by then, I also have one of these printers, 2 year old model and I also have to do maintenance on the mainboard fan, which means I will have to remove the bottom plate and fiddle around in there. That said, my printer is working properly, in the past I’ve alr…
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Hi, check the PSU, may be broken. I got a Geeetech prusa i3X last year, after assembly I turned it on, loud bang, same result as you, only LCD working if connected to PC everything else dead. Used a PC PSU to troubleshoot, it worked fine, so it was the printer PSU in my case. Went online and read ab…
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Hi, the thermistor on my CTC also didn’t heat up enough, was causing issues with ABS and Sitall glass, so I replaced it, details here Coding Chase: CTC-3D and Sitall Hope this helps - also, on a later post I used an infrared monitor to read the temperatures, should help too. EDIT: just to confirm th…
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Thanks for the heads up, will go with the shim solution too then - better safe than sorry!
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I don’t know if the stock firmware has it, but sailfish has an option called Home Offsets - setting the Z offset to minus should work without adding any extra parts. It’s what I do.
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Hi, using the GPX Plugin with Octoprint for my CTC Dual Extruder, these are my settings: My octoprint installation is fairly old, I’m currently in the process of upgrading my current setup as I’ve acquired a Geeetech Prusa i3 X as well, but even this week I have successfully printed about 5 parts…
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Hi Enza3D, Thank you for your reply, I will definitely ask there for help - I wouldn’t mind buying the part if the issue were CTC proprietary files, I searched online and came up empty - so I just thought that, well, from a maker perspective, I could just try to… make it! Anyways, I have managed t…
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Hi, Recently I had an issue with my CTC 3D Dual Extruder printer and the plywood plate underneath the aluminum build plate got damaged. I thought about printing the part using PLA from the files supplied here: However upon more detailed inspection, the corresponding part STL file in the thingiv…
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Hi Mat, yes the soldering job was quite easy, I took some screenshots of the heatbed documented everything on my blog: http://wickwire2099.blogspot.pt/2015/12/ctc-3d-and-sitall.html And yes, the temperature does vary a bit around the edges as it would be expected, however it shouldn’t be a problem…
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Hi everyone, Ever since I got my 3D printer (CTC 3D Dual Extruder) around May 2015, I’ve been working out ways to remotely handle my print jobs. I’ve managed to achieve my goal, so I’d like to share my current setup with the 3D Hubs community! So as many other users out there, I’m using Octoprint…
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Hi, I bought mine on ebay.co.uk at the beginning of June last year from doria-store and everything turned out just fine…!
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I’m a proud owner of a CTC dual printer and having read this comment, would someone point me in the direction of said modifications, which would allow for 50 micron precision printing? By the way, I have recently started using a sitall glass plate and am very pleased with the results, the glass wor…
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Hi, 1. & 2. - If you only consider direct USB connection to the printer, then yes, whatever slicer software you use will need to be able to convert gcode to x3g. Having said that, you can also add Slic3r to the list while having the link below into consideration: http://www.3duniverse.org/2014/01…
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Hi, it seems that all is ok in terms of USB there, so if you rule out the reset button pressing, I think we’ve hit a dead end with this one, unless anyone else has any suggestions.
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Are you able to post the terminal output as you do the upload/reset routine?
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ok, so you have an Ubuntu 64bit there and the printer is being detected as /dev/ttyACM0 as it should. If you run ReplicatorG from the command line and go to Machine > Connection (serial port) you should have ttyACM0 listed there, if not, it should appear once you click on Rescan serial ports Res…
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Same here and have a good one, we’ll eventually figure it out I believe, Happy New Year!
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Unplug the printer from usb; sudo dmesg -c Plug the printer dmesg It should output something there, in particular if any tty device is created. What linux distro are you running? EDIT post the results of dmesg and if available, the outputs of uname -a lsb_release -a as root
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Hi there, Sorry to hear that things aren’t going that well for you. If we are to presume that it is hardly a timing issue by now, then it could still be possible that you’d be experiencing the same troubles I did in the beginning, in spite of me using linux - meaning, it could be that ReplicatorG i…
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About the timing issue… it could be that I just got lucky under Linux, but I don’t think so. Running ReplicatorG from the command line will output the app state to the terminal as usual, so positioning both windows to be visible on screen allows for pressing the upload button on RepG while watching …
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Hi, I’ve recently upgraded my CTC to Sailfish 7.7 (r1432) - I followed the tutorial, used replicatorg-0040r33-Sailfish-linux.tgz from the thingiverse link as I’m using linux and it worked ok. A member here helped me locate the reset button - it is a hole near the USB port in the back of the printe…
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I’ve actually tried that but it seems that somewhere there’s a cap in place and at least the LCD display on the printer won’t show more than 120º. I’m using the stock firmware with my CTC-3D. Would I need to upgrade it/switch to sailfish in order to achieve this or should it still allow for 130ºC se…
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And if you reduce the speed of the first layer to about 20mm/s or even less, is there any difference? What glass type are you using, thickness, etc?
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I’m also trying to print with glass on my CTC - using Sitall glass. With Sitall, ABS is supposed to be worked at 110º Celsius or higher for the heat bed and 230º Celsius for the actual filament temperature. Things start ok, the ABS sticks and the layers seem fine. Mid-print, the parts usually detac…
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I’m using Octoprint on a cubietruck embedded device, basically the same principle as OctoPi but instead of installing on the RPi, I got it running on cubietruck (AllWinner A20 SoC board) and it is as adamcooks said, it works perfectly provided that you use the GPX plugin - even for dual printing. M…
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… or maybe you’re just the kind of user who just wants a turnkey solution, something along the lines of a Nexpresso coffee machine. If that’s the case, then perhaps it would be good to understand that 3D printing isn’t quite there yet, at that level. While I disagree with your comments, I’ll back …
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New tube and new nozzle seem to have worked OK, a few prints in and it looks fine. [new_set_001.jpg] [new_set_002.jpg] [new_set_003.jpg] [new_set_004.jpg] [new_set_005.jpg] [new_set_006.jpg]
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Picking up on MasterFX’s comment, the settings I have on my ReplicatorG 0040 for my CTC-3D are: Machine > Machine Type (Driver) > The Replicator Dual
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Hi, the head/platform alignment seems ok, mine does that too - and then after heating up, the platform rises to meet the head and the printing starts. The clunking sound you’re getting is indeed not normal and in my view, could be related to the following reasons: some material leftover or some o…
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Hi, the new tube arrived yesterday and it fits nicely, matches all the comments and suggestions from the other posters in this thread > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151280480493?\_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I also bought a few spare nozzles that seem to work with this PT…