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Hoi! Ik ga het in mijn agenda zetten, ben benieuwd. Hoe laat zal het ongeveer zijn?
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Ik had wel gelezen dat bij 3d-printen sterk wordt afgeraden dat de voorwerpen voor eten worden gebruikt omdat bacteriën zich goed kunnen vestigen op het ruwe oppervlak. Weet niet zeker of een aceton-dampbehandeling iets uithaalt, lijkt mij wel, maar ben wat dat betreft geen expert. Er bestaat ook a…
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Hi! Thank you for the responses. Part had been printed and mounted in place. Printer didn’t even need recalibration. How wierd to be able to just produce a spare part at home.
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Heb het zelf ook nog nooit gebruikt, maar het schijnt een bepaald speciaal ruw oppervlak te hebben, het is geloof ik niet helemaal hetzelfde. Zelf gebruik ik soms de cold pull methode om vuil te verwijderen.
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Now there’s some nice news to wake up to! Still kinda disappointed they don’t support that out of the box though.
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Hi! What brand 20 EUR/kg are you using? I’m also in the Netherlands. My experience sometimes is that if the bed adhesion is good, the part simply warps the perforated bed itself. Would a higher temperature reduce that? Lack of adjustable temperature indeed is annoying, as is the lack of PLA suppor…
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Well, same people also said PLA would work without problems, so I’m going to take what they say with a grain of salt from now on… and just buy my filament somewhere else.
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All brands ABS? I thought Up printers had trouble with non-PP3DP filament? The place where I bought my printer specifically recommended against using non-original filament with it. Yes, I’m also going to install en extra cooler, but simply a desk fan works as well. (But looks stupid.)
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Actually, I tried it with the door open and a desktop fan at full power in front, and it’s working quite nicely. I’m about an hour into the print, hasn’t blocked yet. (Actually, I just heard my printer beeping, print is done, and it’s looking good.) I’m using Lay3rs strore-brand PLA filament.
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That this must be an unrelated problem since I don’t have any issues with ABS. I suggested to submerge the nozzle in acetone for several hours or to doa “cold pull” of the filament. Also that Up-brand printers often have trouble with non-PP3DP filament.
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Désolé, ca doit être un autre problème, je n’ai aucun problème avec l’ABS. Tu pourrais essayer de mettre le bec de la tête d’impression dans de l’acétone pendant plusieurs heures (l’acétone dissout l’ABS, mais pas le PLA), ou bien faire un “cold pull” pour le débloquer, c’est à dire retirer le fila…
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Thanks for the tip! I thought that project was dead, but apparently not… But with ABS I also have very little problems if I preheat it for a full hour with one of the gloves that come with the printer on the printbed.
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Hmmm… some googling resulted in someone suggesting to point a fan at the stepper motor on the print head, and I managed to print a 1,5x size Marvin, which took longer than the time after which it usually quits working.
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This forum post (http://pp3dp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=53648) seems to be related. It seems to be a problem related to damaged cables.
