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M3. About 8mm or so. Length is not super critical.
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It sounds like the Z-18 uses limit switches to re-establish its homing location, and when your print shifted near the start of your print, you were essentially printing the object “in the wrong place”. When the printer then resumed and returned to the correct location, your in-progress print which w…
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The first thing to realize is that the workflow for 3D depends very much on what you’re working on, and the tools will need to be selected based on that. In “2D printing”, you could be working on (for example) art, engineering drawings, photography, spreadsheets, or text documents – they are quite …
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Bottom of spheres are challenging, especially if modeled with a 'point contact" at the bottom, where successive layers are at an extreme overhang angle and have more nozzle path versus the previous layer. Most support structures, by default, will not actually come in contact with the sphere surface …
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If your cylinder is small enough, the span is considered to be bridgeable, and that’s why there’s no support underneath. There’s a way to set the distance threshold for this You’ll want to look at https://support.makerbot.com/learn/makerbot-desktop-software/print-settings/custom-profiles-bridging\_1…
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Err, maybe not. I thought 3D Hubs had a PM feature, but apparently not. If you like, drop me a line at toybuilderlabs.com - just go to the contact us page and then ask for me.
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Well, with lots of printers, the parameters are already known, so the only real calibration would be for filament variations. But if you’re doing a scratch build or modifying a printer, you’ll need to do more calibration, of course. I’ll send you a PM.
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Where in Los Angeles are you? If you really need to meet in person, my shop is in Pasadena - I may be able to help. But I suggest documenting what you’re doing and “show your work”. Most likely, you’ll solve it with people looking over your shoulders here.
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We screwed up. Period. Full stop. However, as we have already said before (in reply to Adam’s review on our Facebook page), Adam was able to apply the 20% discount on a printer which is ineligible for that discount because of an error on our part. This was not our attempt to bait-and-switch our cu…
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If you are certain about the reliability of the electronics, then you most certainly can and would benefit from encapsulating your electronics in a 3D print. On Marlin-based machines with LCD displays, putting in a M600 change-filament/pause gcode is probably the easiest way to accomplish this. Make…
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Did you try printing without rafts? I have no issues with flexible filament when printing raftless. Your use of PLA to ensure a properly trammed base is a nice workaround for those that cannot reliably print raftless. Base layer of rafts generally rely on heavy over-extrusion of material being squ…
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the MakerBot Users Group Google Group is good place to start.
