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If you are printing in PLA, some brands can be very dry. Unlike ABS, PLA doesn’t usually have any oil/lubrication in the filament. You could try adding a filament oiler/filter in line. Add a drop of oil to the filter and see if that helps. I have to add a drop every 8-10 hours of printing with the f…
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As wirlybird said, try PETG. But if you want to play with ABS in the meantime, you could try giving the part an acetone vapor bath. This helps smooth the walls and makes layer bonding a bit stronger.
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Accelleration and Jerk: http://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/duplicator-i3-calibration/firmware-settings/ That site also has lots of other things on the regular i3 which should mostly translate to the i3 Plus.
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I’m not entirely sure that’s under-extrusion. What does the rest of the right side look like? If it were under-extrusion I’d expect the whole right side to look bad, but the top after the corner looks fine from the photo. To me it looks more like it started printing on thin air and globbed up. Then …
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Sounds like you may have a clog or partial clog. As for leveling the bed, have you tried going completely back to all springs compressed and then leveling? Also, level the bed while it’s warm (60°C) as it does tend to warp as it warms up.
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First layer is too smooshed. The heat isn’t bubbling it, but rather the next line of filament is pushing it up. Either you are over-extruding, or your bed leveling put your nozzle too close. Both can be handled in Simplify3d if you are using that. In S3D, bump your first layer height up. For instanc…
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I purchased a Maker Select, so my printer didn’t come with the Wanhao BuildTak. But, heat is often quite useful for removing sticky material. Might try heating your bed to 100° when removing the BuildTak. It may make it easier.
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Yes it’s the jumper. It’s labeled on the board as J14 or Auto Reset. Here is a picture to help as well. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d8Cv43NbUsw/VcpOxBd92ZI/AAAAAAAAAfs/iVSe5m-Wn0A/s1600/Melzi-ardentissimo-top.png
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This is the answer. Try this and it should work fine.
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When you are setting it up, follow the manual included on the SD card rather than the quick start sheet. It details how to level the Z axis which is missing on the sheet and is probably the #1 problem new users have. It’s going to be off out of the box making bed leveling impossible. After everythin…
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Yeah unfortunately a heatbed on it’s own doesn’t help with getting the print to stick. It only helps to keep it stuck and to avoid warping by keeping heat in the print while it’s still printing. Nothing will stick to glass without treatment as far as I know.
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Hey Christian. I’m pretty new too, so hopefully I don’t give you bad advice. For me, what works, is a glass plate on top of the heatbed. I then use only a gluestick to put a thin layer of glue all over the glass plate. I set the temp on the heatbed to 60c and have had great results printing with PLA…
