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Dec 2015

From a reseller the only thing you will get right now is a v4.

In our office we have 4 M200’s, 2 Cube Pros, 2 Cube 3s, Taz 4 with 5 parts, Makerbot replicator 2x, Objet 30 Prime, EnvisionTEC 3SP and an EnvisionTEC Micro EDU.

As for FDM Printing, My zortrax machines have become my go to machines. I have 1/10 the failures of the other machines. The fine detail results are so much better then the other FDM printers. zortrax’s support structures are the best I have seen so far and are very easily removable. When I make the move to have a 3D printer at home the M200 will be the one I put there.

I don’t just say this because we are a reseller of Zortrax Printers, we are also resellers for 3D Systems Cube, ekocycle and cube pro printers, Axiom (Air Wolfe), EnvisionTEC and we are looking at bringing UP Box and Fusion 3 printers online as a reseller for them. We also run a print service with our printers and when I say the M200s have become my goto printers I say it because they have.

Thanks,

Tom

I have a Zortrax and Love it (purchased new feb 2014). Never used the ultimaker2 but from what I’ve seen on-line a lot of clean up. That’s why I went with Zortrax. There are a lot of people on Zortrax forum that would know what the difference between the version are.

With an after market Z-Temp addition to the Zortrax M200, it can print any material that is on the market.

I have found in my business that I have had some with Ultimakers that needed a quality print, hired my M200 to print it for them. I am sure the ultimaker can do quality but with so many tweaks needed to the settings to get that quality print, I wouldn’t even attempt to delve into that world. lol

http://www.3dzprinting.com

Hi Tareq,

Zortrax is a great printer and if you need to have reliable printer, with filament formulated for the specific printer for the best quality prints and don’t want to spend time on thinking about parameters and settings - buy M200. After reading all entry, clarification is needed as folks mixing software, microcode and plain hardware. 1). Z-Suite is exactly 1.4.1.(commonly called v4), printer had 2 versions, first at original Kiskstarter with rounded extruder cable, quickly replaced with flat cable (by the way you should print kit keeping extruder flat cable and plastic extruder feeder together to prevent cable being damaged - see attached picture). 2). Both HotEnds v1 and v2 are supported by Z-Suite 1.4.1, both plates v1 (thinner) and v2 (thicker) are supported by Z-Suite 1.4.1 3). M200 hardware and functionality changes are driven by new microcode, again nothing to do with Z-Suite as software is compatible with new and “old” hardware, microcode is really much more important to be current…

New plate is better in preventing warping (model and plate itself, made from aluminium) and is more evenly heated. New Z-Suite version is solving bugs, changing some functions available during slicing, adding more precise slicing algorithm etc.

New microcode is adding new function like filament load and unload, time of print, progress and so on visible on LCD screen. yes, you should have latest versions of ZSuite and Microcode, but if you can buy older without at bargain price, go for it as every thing you can download from Zortrax web site. Confusion is created by some of the distributors, resellers as they proclaimed different version of Printer by bundling HotEnd v2, Plate v2 and sometimes side covers together and selling it as v4 or “Professional”. All parts can be acquired separately and assembled into your printer, again nothing to do with Z-Suite.

Base printer in US is around $1,990.00, other elements varies. New printer generally are shipped by Zortrax with HotEnd v2 and plate v2 and side covers can be purchased separately, as they help preventing model warping.

if you have more questions please let me know

Kuba@paliproto.com
Filament.JPG Filament 2.JPG

I own a Zortrax and what your talking about is Firmware that runs the machine, always get the latest version of software and firmware, that way your kept up to date.

As far as the Zortrax Machine goes, I cannot fault it, I have had it running for a year now and no trouble at all, compare a Zortrax to an Ultimaker, I would not put them in the same bucket, Zortrax to me is superior, Industrial grade Prints that I cannot fault.

I have several machines from different makers and about 6 of my own built, Zortrax stands above all, I would have no hesitation in buying a Zortrax over any brand.

Other Filaments can be run in a Zortrax, but you need an add on from :

It is very good !!!

Hello,

The differences are in the extruding and the nozzle. This printer is really a professional because very precise level : 90 microns.

The update is very followed by the manufacturer and provides access to a pro library.

The machine is reliable. I have no problems over one year long.

I recommend zortrax for Professional prints

I thought at some point they had wifi in version x. I know they also improved the platform between certain versions. I have the latest version 4. It’s the best printer I had by far. I had a RepRap and Form 1+. The Zortrax has been printing for over 20 hours now without a single problem.

Thank you so much
i have received new one v4 great yet . but i need more choice
what about Z-Temp any one used ?? good idea ?

Hey, congrats on the printer, your going to love it.

As for Z-temp I’ll say this. I own two M200’s, one has the Z-temp. I’ve had the printers for over a year and I waited till my first ones warranty ran out. My main reason for the year though was just to get experience and learn the machine. I’m not sure if this is your first 3D printer but if it is I would certainly wait a little before worrying about Z-Temp.

It seems like a great tool but really you will be able to print anything you need really with the regular machine. Only thing I wish I had was the option for ninja fled but z temp can’t even do that.

Ill ll also add I’ve not had very good luck with the z temp. I’ve only tried using it a few times and the material I’ve tried isn’t very highly recommended so it’s not a great example. I’ve spent probably more time taking the hot end off and cleaning it then I have printing.

Your suggestion to gain some familiarity with the printer before venturing into third-party materials is a sound one that I agree with.

As for “being able to print anything you need” without a Z-Temp, I would respectfully disagree - you cannot print any of the myriad and wonderful PLA, nylon, or tree-lignin based materials out there. Warping is an issue with all of the Zortrax materials, and pretty much a non-issue with the others. I’d owned my first M200 for a year before developing Z-Temp (yes, I’m the developer) and printed a boatload of ABS and UltraT with it - now I almost never use it because PLA prints so beautifully warp-free.

As you note, not all PLAs work well, but more and more compatible ones are appearing on the market all the time. There’s a complete guide to what works and what doesn’t at http://www.z-temp.co/materials-guide.html 4.

Regarding nozzle clogs, it’s simply a matter of being sure to run a few feet of material through the nozzle at full temperature whenever changing to a lower-temp material. I haven’t had a clog in many months.

As to Z-Temp “not even being able” to support NinjaFlex, that’s nothing to do with Z-Temp - the design of the M200’s feed system, with the feed gear several long inches from the nozzle, precludes its working with rubber-like materials. You can’t push a wet noodle! Taulman PCTPE, however, works great and while not really rubber-like, can provide flex for many applications.

I have to disagree to an extent on your results. Have you printed with the v2 nozzle and plate? I am able to get full build size prints with zero warping. (ABS and UltraT)

Also a little bit of slurry does help with that. I will get a few warped parts but that usually due to the middle being .02 off from the rest of the build platform. This means that the build plate needs taken apart and cleaned then back to printing.

8 days later